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I've talked a lot about ways to process scans in blender, but I've tended to avoid the actual scanning process, because by-and-large it's fairly self-evident- but folks have asked, and with Polycam's new browser-based functionality opening up the Object Capture system to folks without iPhones, it seems like a good time to talk about everything I can think of regarding capturing good photoscans.   


Oh except for: "get nice, clean, high-res pictures". I forgot to say that bit. I should have put that in there.    


Here's the phone model, if you want it!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OgBEFrtGeCPw2CcFkdftnekU3hepDoSq/view?usp=sharing

Files

Capturing Photoscans: Everything I Can Think of

0:00 Greetings from The War (Regrets) 0:37 I Like Photoscanning (?) 1:50 Apple's Object Capture API (two cool updates) 3:15 Polycam Available to Folks Without Iphones 3:30 Redundant Mission Statement 4:32 What the Computer Needs for Good Scans (parallax, clear data) 6:13 Basic Optics Tradeoffs (DOF/Shutter-Speed/Etc) 12:50 My Photoscanning Setup 13:37 Importance of Attire 14:30 Actually Scanning 17:10 Soggy Warnings of Tricky Scan Subjects 18:21 Quick Tip for Digitally Cleaning Foliage 19:52 Wide-vs-Narrow Lenses 21:32 Scanning Objects 22:24 Importance of Even Lighting 25:35 Fixing White Balance in the Texture Editor 28:05 Polycam 29:38 Examining a Troubled Scan 33:00 Reality Capture vs Object Capture (in my experience) 36:33 Shoot in Manual Mode 37:00 Continued Experiments with Focal Length 37:30 Turning Videos into Image Sequences in Blender 39:35 Fixing Weirdness in Polycam Model's Import Process I've talked a lot about ways to process scans in blender, but I've tended to avoid the actual scanning process, because by-and-large it's fairly self-evident- but folks have asked, and with Polycam's new browser-based functionality opening up the Object Capture system to folks without iPhones, it seems like a good time to talk about everything I can think of about capturing good photoscans. Oh except for: "get nice, clean, high-res pictures". I forgot to say that bit. I should have put that in there. Here's the phone model, if you want it! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OgBEFrtGeCPw2CcFkdftnekU3hepDoSq/view?usp=sharing

Comments

Anonymous

YES! THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!

Anonymous

A tutorial is not complete without war flashbacks :D

Anonymous

The answer to all my problems Ian thank you! Can't wait to watch

Anonymous

I am not much of an iPhone fan, but when I discovered that it has a lidar scanner, I started to think of getting one. The ability to scan stuff whenever you want is so cool. So excited to watch this when I get home.

Anonymous

the little flashback face at 15:11 almost made me choke on my food

IanHubert

I get into it a bit in the video, but the Lidar actually isn't that useful for most scans (not high enough res- great for reference, though!)- ALTHOUGH, if you take pictures through certain apps, it'll do a quick lidar scan that it'll use for correctly scaling the final scan, which is pretty darn handy, actually (it also uses the accelerometer or something so everything is imported "upright")) What's really been knocking my socks off is Apple's Object Capture system, and until last week you had to have an iphone in order to access it. Polycam just added a web interface so you can use Object Capture without having an iphone, which is great! Because yeah- I'm not the biggest fan of iPhones either.

Anonymous

You might want to look into circular polarizing lens filters and polarizing light gels/films to remove specular reflections! Your overhead light setup might not work well with it, because of how the polarizing physics works, I'm not entirely sure. But small shinier objects lit from the sides would be perfect. Outdoors without the gels, you can still control what reflections show up a bit, super useful and cheap. It does reduce the total amount of light pretty significantly, but could be worth the trade off for certain scans. I use them to photograph paintings without any glare.

IanHubert

YES! I want to give that a shot. Actually! I have a variable ND filter, which I think is just two polarizing filters- curious to see how it goes! If nothing else, it could mean that I just scan glossy things outdoors.

Anonymous

This is incredibly helpful! Thank you so much!! 🙂

Howie Day

Very cool! Have you considered snagging some Matte transparent spray coat to spritz your reflective models with before you scan them? On something cool like that metal gun it might ruin the look on the original object, but if the end goal is to use that as the basis for a 3d scanned model, then getting a super-clean, non reflective finish might be worth it. Just a thought!

IanHubert

Ah thanks Howard! That's a really interesting idea! I'll go pick some up in the near future and give it a shot.

ash katchum

Thank you so Much! very helpful

Anonymous

I have just started to watch this video, and i don't need to see no more. Academy, you better give this men the fucking oscar he deserves. Well played Ian, well played.

Anonymous

This video it's pure gold thanks Ian<3 Also those first and last minutes are definitely what makes this subscription absolutely worth it

Anonymous

worth it for the song! :-)

Anonymous

This is really good information, because I'm thinking of getting into photoscanning with Polycam so i could do some reality into some CG shots, plus other assets with live action stuff allows me to have this hybrid of 2.5D and Live action. But thank you for assets and everything too :). Also, I'm fairly new here and the Discord server. P.s if spray paint can't be a liable solution you can use tape to cover up any windows ;)

Anonymous

Damn Ian, this is an awesome video!!!

Anonymous

I chuckled at the clothes changing all the way through.

Anonymous

How about a large white tent/dome around your scanned object to even out the light and kills those specular highlights & reflections?

Anonymous

Also, before you started with the 14mm scans....was that a cube with a butt inside Blender? 😉

Stephan

Super good video. Thanks for the bucket of info. It was nice to get some more detail on how others are doing the scans and an idea of where you can make compromises to fit your preference. Quality vs quantity, etc. I haven't tried shooting with video yet. So that was good to see how you would do that quickly using blender and pop it onto polycam. I did have one thought, since I live in a similarly rainy area (Vancouver). I haven't been scanning since the summer because of the rain. Turning everything all wet in the scans...I wonder if there's anything to be done about that. I guess just changing material settings? ...or I need to build some rainy scenes.. *Oh and that next video sounds really exciting.

Anonymous

OMG I'm not even a quarter way through and I'm just howling with glee here. Oscar Worthy indeed!

Anonymous

Amazing video! So inspired to try myself. So I actually also have the sony A7III and the 14mm GM lense. whats the aperture setting you used? Or did i miss that in the video?

Anonymous

Is Kaitlin off-screen with a fire extinguisher?

Anonymous

awesome, thanks! Do you have any good way to unwrap the model and get a decent looking texture? Isnt there a way to force reality capture to do like a cube or camera projection? All my scans have just terrible UVs no matter what I do....

Anonymous

Hey, for those enterprising, frugal individuals, you can download the source code to a macOS photogrammetry app and a companion image capture iPhone app. You do need Xcode 13 to build it and Monterey/iOS 15 to run it, but who doesn’t have an M1 Mac mini lying around? https://developer.apple.com/documentation/realitykit/creating_a_photogrammetry_command-line_app https://developer.apple.com/documentation/realitykit/taking_pictures_for_3d_object_capture

Anonymous

Glorious intro a reference to MYST ?

Anonymous

Awesome tips n tricks Ian! Thank you! And lol@crazy cutscenes! :D

Anonymous

Ian, have you tried using a motorized turntable? I see a lot of people doing that and having good results.

Anonymous

Thank you again sir! Such amazing wisdom. The cut scenes make me want to see your version of The Lighthouse where you play every character!

Anonymous

Informative and fun to watch. Love the spirit of Tom Waits in the vocals.

Anonymous

Others have mentioned using a circular polarizer to reduce inherent specular reflections, but I have had tremendous luck on object scans using a cross-polarization technique. Basically, you place a linear polarizer over your light source, then 'tune' your circular lens polarizer to eliminate almost 100% percent of the specular reflections, allowing you to capture only diffuse textures. This works best with a single light source, so if you film against a black backdrop and use a ring light around your lens, then place your object on a turntable, you will also have the added ability to capture a shadowless representation of your object, since all of the light is essentially coming from the same perspective of the lens.

Anonymous

Hi Ian! thanks for all the insights! Just one question about polycam. Are you using the same pro account from your iPhone in the web upload thingy, or you had to sign up for 2 different accounts? I tried to use the pro account I use on my iPad on the web but I couldn't... it opened just a fresh-no-scan-history-free account...

Anonymous

Thanks for the shout out old friend. You have not forgotten me completely LOL 🤣

Anonymous

This was fantastic. I love the delivery of information and especially appreciate the brief tangents you veer off into. The mushroom discovery and subsequent Googling was *chef's kiss* Thank you for the format and the 3D scanning tutorial all blended together, it is very much appreciated!

Anonymous

Lol the cube with a butt randomly 3/4 of the way through

Anonymous

But seriously, the hundreds of photogrammetry tuts out there do NOT mention the need to keep each successive photo in context with the previous! Like an anchor point for the software, it makes a world of difference. Thank you!

Manuel Grewer

I did a bunch of photoscanning already but I feel I still learned a few bits and bobs. Always nice to see creative people share their process.

Anonymous

Bill is a holocaust denier, but he's a good guy. :)

Anonymous

I am not sure if you know but for Iphone I use Filmic Pro app.. it gives you access to Log and other DSLR functions on your iphone. Fixed iso, fixed parameters all you need.

Anonymous

Hey People, I found something very useful in Terms of Delighting 3D Scans! It's the Agisoft Texture De-Lighter. It's free, really useful and just does what it says.

Anonymous

For android 3D Scanner (icon is white with a blue lens). Works without lidar, S8 and S10 it works OK. can't complain, could be better though.

Anonymous

Concerning the "use low iso" Yes by rasing the iso or gain you arent getting more information from the sensor youre only multiplying it. However most of the time youre not recording the raw signal comming from the sensor, espacially when using a phone camera. The dynamic range of the sensor is mapped on to the dynamic range of your file format. During this process to shrink the dynamic range some unimportant information is left out. But how does the camera determin which information is unimprotant ? By looking at the exposure of our image. Cameras are in general optimised to take pictures of humans. Human skin is usally exposed at 68% - 70% exposure (for white people, values for poc my vary). Around the skin tones the the dynamic range usally remains uncompressed, information in shadow or extrem highlights are exceeded . Same goes for digital file compression algorithms such as jpeg, they get rid of most shadow detail while skintones usally get by fairly untouched. In short dont underexpose your pictures because youre afraid of noise or high iso values, you might be able to preserve information from dynamic range compression or digital file compression, even if youre not giving new information to the sensor by rasing your iso or gain. For instance i got perfectly noise free scans with reality capture using 6MPixel Jpegs at Iso 6400 even if their offical tutorials suggest to stay as close to Iso 100 as possible. I suppose during their texture reconstuction the noise from the different pictures is averaged out. In case I am horribly wrong about the technical side of all this and just lucky with my scan. Please help me to capture better scans by correcting me.

Anonymous

This is great!! Is the dog from Party Tug a photo scan too? How'd you get him to stay still?

IanHubert

HAHA!! Yes!! I orbited him while filming for a long time, until he got bored and looked somewhere else, then I used all the frames from the 1 second he was staying still for the scan, which is why one side of him looks okay, but the other's kinda blobby :P

Fransoa

If I want to integrate this technique in a movie: is it possible to animate a scan or to rig for instance a scanned person ?