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I've not seen this officially documented, but there's a way to set a new bit temperature for these soldering irons that is done entirely from the single button on the unit.

After I made the video showing the hardware hack a few people sent me a copy of the same text, showing the button calibration mode.  I'm not sure if it's documented somewhere, or if someone worked it out and put it on the 'net.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkvocvlF8jw

Given that the other video was quite popular I may jump this one to the front of the queue and release it next to literally "strike while the iron's hot."

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After my video showing the circuitry of the Lidl Parkside soldering iron, and how a physical component change could allow the default ferocious 500 Celsius tip temperature to be customised, a few viewers got in touch and described a calibration mode that you can access via the single button on the front. Here's how it seems to work:- Allow the iron to come up to temperature so the LED lights green. To lower the tip temperature, press and hold the button until the LED turns red. Press the button repeatedly with roughly one press per 4 degrees Celsius. During the pressing the LED will light solid green to show that it is registering the presses. When finished, wait for the LED to go red again and then press and hold the button until it goes back to normal mode with the static green LED. To increase the tip temperature, press and hold the button until the LED first turns red and then starts flashing green. Press the button repeatedly with roughly one press per 4 degrees Celsius. During the pressing the LED will light solid green to show that it is registering the presses. When finished, wait for the LED to start flashing green again and then press and hold the button until it goes back to normal mode with the static green LED. Some experimentation may be required, as I got variable results suggesting that button press timing may be critical. (fast presses seem to work best.) I'm not sure if this adjustment is documented somewhere or if someone worked it out by using the "press and hold to see if something happens" trick. Kudos to the person who discovered this. Using this technique can bring the tip temperature down from the default 480/500C to a more suitable tin/lead soldering temperature with about 26 presses in "red" mode. If your iron is "smoking" the solder and making it dark and crusty very quickly, then doing this will extend the life of the bits greatly, and also result in a much faster warm-up time of just 30 seconds. If you go too far and the solder isn't melting correctly (lead free?) you can nudge it up again by entering "green flashing" mode and doing three clicks to nudge it up about 12C at a time as needed. If you have a soldering iron temperature tester, then the unit does seem to respond in real time when in the calibration mode, allowing for the irons thermal inertia. So you can theoretically leave it in calibration mode while nudging the temperature up or down one click at a time before exiting calibration. Let me know if this works for you, noting that later models may change the software or default temperature over time. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Comments

Anonymous (edited)

Comment edits

2023-02-11 04:14:38 These are back in stores since Sunday and I was wondering: could two of these be used to control hot tweezers? I stupidly got a pair without checking if I was able to plug them into my soldering station. The pair I have should be used with a GORDAK 902 station and has a 7-pin connector. My station has 5-pin connector. I was thinking of adding a socket and connector to the Lidl iron/s and create an y-adaptor cable to connect the tweezers to the two controllers. I have not taken the tweezers apart yet, so I still have no idea about the wiring if that is possible. If I'm lucky, Clive might have a video about this! (fingers crossed, hint hint!) PS: I pronounce Xaksin as in the english Shaxon after the late Alan Shaxon (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Shaxon) - well known internationally amongst fellow members within the magic community.
2023-02-08 14:45:07 These are back in stores since Sunday and I was wondering: could two of these be used to control hot tweezers? I stupidly got a pair without checking if I was able to plug them into my soldering station. The pair I have should be used with a GORDAK 902 station and has a 7-pin connector. My station has 5-pin connector. I was thinking of adding a socket and connector to the Lidl iron/s and create an y-adaptor cable to connect the tweezers to the two controllers. I have not taken the tweezers apart yet, so I still have no idea about the wiring if that is possible. If I'm lucky, Clive might have a video about this! (fingers crossed, hint hint!) PS: I pronounce Xaksin, Maltese spelling of the English Shaxon after the late Alan Shaxon (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Shaxon) - well known internationally amongst fellow members within the magic community.

These are back in stores since Sunday and I was wondering: could two of these be used to control hot tweezers? I stupidly got a pair without checking if I was able to plug them into my soldering station. The pair I have should be used with a GORDAK 902 station and has a 7-pin connector. My station has 5-pin connector. I was thinking of adding a socket and connector to the Lidl iron/s and create an y-adaptor cable to connect the tweezers to the two controllers. I have not taken the tweezers apart yet, so I still have no idea about the wiring if that is possible. If I'm lucky, Clive might have a video about this! (fingers crossed, hint hint!) PS: I pronounce Xaksin, Maltese spelling of the English Shaxon after the late Alan Shaxon (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Shaxon) - well known internationally amongst fellow members within the magic community.

bigclive

It depends on the sensor used, as some use thermocouples and the LIDL units I looked at used a resistance change device. It may be worth looking to see what access to connections in the tweezer elements you have.

Anonymous (edited)

Comment edits

2023-04-28 04:58:53 This is what I found. Maybe others here may find the information useful. I'll describe it as best I can without a diagram. Each side has 4 wires plus "spring" from the heating element (white, white, red, blue, metal shield via spring). The white ones in series and measured about 14 ohms each (pins 1 & 2 on the plug and pin 7 common). The blues are commoned to pin 6, while the reds have pins 4 & 5 respectively. Pin 3 is the metal shield connection. The resistance across red&blue is less than one ohm. I am assuming that the heating elements are those measuring 14 ohms each. I haven't got inside the Lidl base yet other than on your videos.
2023-02-08 16:56:10 This is what I found. Maybe others here may find the information useful. I'll describe it as best I can without a diagram. Each side has 4 wires plus "spring" from the heating element (white, white, red, blue, metal shield via spring). The white ones in series and measured about 14 ohms each (pins 1 & 2 on the plug and pin 7 common). The blues are commoned to pin 6, while the reds have pins 4 & 5 respectively. Pin 3 is the metal shield connection. The resistance across red&blue is less than one ohm. I am assuming that the heating elements are those measuring 14 ohms each. I haven't got inside the Lidl base yet other than on your videos.

This is what I found. Maybe others here may find the information useful. I'll describe it as best I can without a diagram. Each side has 4 wires plus "spring" from the heating element (white, white, red, blue, metal shield via spring). The white ones in series and measured about 14 ohms each (pins 1 & 2 on the plug and pin 7 common). The blues are commoned to pin 6, while the reds have pins 4 & 5 respectively. Pin 3 is the metal shield connection. The resistance across red&blue is less than one ohm. I am assuming that the heating elements are those measuring 14 ohms each. I haven't got inside the Lidl base yet other than on your videos.

Curtis Hoffmann

Hackers. What *can't* they do?

Anonymous

It seems the Chinese version of the USB-C Cordless Soldering Iron (FROGBRO is the most common brand) also has additional functionality accessible by button presses, sadly none of these work with the current LIDL model, but may have worked on the prior model. Still, it's fine for what it is.

Amro

Would this be good for a slow solderer with very shaky hands, like me, do you think? MS has really wrecked my handwriting and soldering!

Mick Spanner

Tells me after I just finish putting the case crews back in my iron after adding a potentiometer inside 😑

Anonymous

Very tempting purchase now..

bigclive

You may find that when you're soldering your shaking stops briefly. I had an elderly coworker who shook all the time, but stopped while working on intricate things. This soldering iron is actually pretty good to hold, and once set at a lower temperature it can perform admirably.

Anonymous

Bought one this morning ( they are middle of Lidl from today ) with a manufacturing date of 2022-05, B2 model , no luck with getting it into calibration mode, it just turns off with the slow flashing red.

bigclive

That's annoying. I wonder if they've tamed the temperature down. Is it still discolouring and burning the solder/flux? If I can get one I'll investigate a hack.

Anonymous

I've been keeping an eye out, but I haven't seen this in my local Lidl (NYC area)

Anonymous

Picked one up yesterday ( in Scotland), no calibration mode that I can find. Will open it up and try the resistor mod.

Anonymous

Mine is not burning solder, but is corroding through the tip at an impressive speed. Will need to open it up and see if the trimmer pot can be put in.

Anonymous

PCB has changed. No trimpot position, but I can't post pictures here.