How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 7 - Making The Barrel (Patreon)

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 7 - Making The Barrel

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 7, by Clickspring. In this episode, I make the barrel for the Large Wheel Skeleton Clock project. The process includes a lot of turning on the lathe, some milling, scroll sawing, and even a little hand turning with gravers. Be sure to use breathing protection whenever using heat to break a super glue bond. Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment. If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ "Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D Interapid Dial Test Indicator: http://amzn.to/2FPInwH Generic Dial Indicator 0.001": http://amzn.to/2FOFTyF Hegner Scroll Saw: https://amzn.to/2IhteVW Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: http://amzn.to/2IO6aPw Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2DR5fdb Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2ITfeTa YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: https://amzn.to/2G7ylv6 Digital Calipers: https://amzn.to/2IkFh4O Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: http://amzn.to/2pid6vR For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit http://www.clickspringprojects.com Abbreviated Transcript: 01:02 The tubing is mounted on lathe chuck with the jaws lightly gripping from the inside, and the stock sitting clear of the back of the chuck jaws. and then its given a little bump with this centering tool, to set it true. Once its running true on the chuck, the jaws can be tightened. 01:55 Both the inside and outside were given a skim cut to true up the surfaces, and then I machined the recess for the rear cap, taking quite light cuts to get a good finish. This section was then parted off, a little over length, to allow for machining of the other end. 02:25 It was then remounted on the chuck, this time pressed up against the back of the chuck jaws. A quick check shows it's running fairly true. Now the part needs to be faced to final length, and to then have the front recess machined. 02:41 So I completed the facing cut. And then machined the second recess with a slight back taper, by feeding in with the compound on a 3 degree angle. The barrel cap will be made with a rounded edge, so this taper will give it a nice snap fit in the barrel. 03:25 Now these caps will need machining on both the edges and the front surface before we're done, so it's a perfect job for a super-glue arbor. If you're wondering what the grooves are for, it's to make sure that the glue has enough air to fully cure. 03:37 Without the grooves, the perimeter seals off the glue in the middle, and it stays liquid. The first machining step for the caps is to knock off the rough edges of the blank, and turn down the diameter, leaving it oversize for now. The center hole was then drilled, slightly undersize. 04:04 I plan to manually broach out these cap holes later, using a clockmakers cutting broach. That way the holes will fit the barrel arbor precisely. 04:18 Now super glue arbors work very well, but they're not without limits, and I did push my luck a bit here with the depth of cut. You can see the part get the wobbles about now. I generated quite a bit of heat, the heat softens the glue, until it fails. I re fixed it to the arbor, gave it a quick cut to true up the bore ...and were back in business. 05:46 And thats the rear cap complete for now. A bit of heat breaks the super glue bond, and that rear cap can now be permanently fixed into place in the barrel. 06:02 I'm going to bond it with loctite, so the parts need a good clean with lighter fluid before applying the glue. The inside of the barrel recess needs to be clean too, to get a good seating for the cap. 07:45 The last operation on the lathe, was to use these gravers to turn the radiused edge on the front bushing And thats the front cap done. Now the cap fit is OK. but it does have a slight amount of play in it, more than I'd like. 08:22 The solution is to lightly hammer the perimeter to expand it a small amount, and after doing this, the fit is much improved. This cap also needs a little prising slot put into it, so it can be levered off the barrel when the clock is serviced. References: John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book: http://www.ritetimepublishing.com/ Bill Smith, Master Clockmaker: (Super Glue Arbor) http://www.wrsmithtelegraphkeys.com How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 7, by Clickspring.