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https://youtu.be/Sq_GFKpPhnY

Greetings, all! I've got a bit of a different LGR Thing this week, all about an early portable electronic calculator that I find wildly appealing both inside and out.

And I was really hoping it would be fully working, or I would be able to repair it, but alas! It's not quite fully operational and I simply don't know how to go about fixing up this lovely old thing. It's in stellar shape cosmetically and nothing obvious (to me) is out of place or broken, so that's... something I guess. But until I can find someone who's willing to help troubleshoot this with me, or I find some more info that lets me attempt to fix it myself, then it remains a beautiful old technological paperweight.

Still, I hope you get some enjoyment from this exploration of a 50+ year old device! I think it's probably the oldest thing I've covered before, huh. And if nothing else, I had fun filming in one of my main new recording areas and playing with the lighting and lenses and whatnot. That exceedingly yellow wall isn't actually as off-putting as I thought it might be, but it's still going to be changed to a more neutral, less-textured surface in the coming weeks. So don't get too attached to the yellow, ha.

And that's it for now. I'm supposed to be getting a new arcade machine delivered today so that may end up being the next video, if it's something that ends up being worthy of that! Which yeah, it truly will, assuming it arrives in good condition. Wish me luck, and have a good one!

Files

Dictaphone 1680 for patrons

an LGR thing.

Comments

Anonymous

I know Ben Heck has a thing for calculators. I'm sure you have plenty of options for people that could help you out with this but he sure does know his way around old calcs

Anonymous

The display seems to need high voltage. Maybe a capacitor is failing?

BastetFurry

Yep, when in doubt change the caps, they are most of the times the cheapest component you can try. I would do that for Clint, but sending something from the US to Germany and back might get a bit expensive. ^^'

Anonymous

I'd be tempted to give some sections a good soak in DoxIT D5. Especially on the corrosion between the gold and ceramic.

Anonymous

This thing has such a classic Star Trek Tricorder vibe to it.

Anonymous

A creator I watch who definitely has the *skills* to do it is is CuriousMarc ( https://www.youtube.com/curiousmarc/ ). His passion lies with early HP measuring equipment (and calculators/computers), and he's in the process of doing an extensive project getting actual NASA lunar-landing radios to work again (well outside my skillset, but absolutely fascinating). You can reach out to him ... I did at one point to offer some measuring equipment (he declined), but I'm sure he would at least respond.

Anonymous

Very tempted to edit, but I should have added that "he has the tools; he has the talent!," paraphrasing Winston.

Anonymous

Honestly reminds me of a Star Trek TOS tricorder lol. Put a leather or pleather strap on it and it could be a specialized TOS tricorder

Michael Sunseri

Now might be the time to talk to the 8bit guy or “The Tech Time Traveler” https://youtube.com/c/TechTimeTraveller He is very well versed in these ancient machines

LazyGameReviews

You're so right, haha. Now I wonder if it was ever used as a prop in anything other than Ghostbusters!

Anonymous

Well it's too new to be a Star Trek TOS prop, but yeah, who knows! I don't see a kid in the 70s using this as a toy though. Too expensive. You absolutely should put that in your retro room!

Anonymous

My dad could have used this in school for all I know. I don't know that he would have been in the Physical Testing Laboratory (?), but maybe I should ask. Of course, Physical Testing Laboratory is pretty dang generic, so who knows.

Anonymous

Anyone else start looking for "Property of Black Mesa Research Facility" as soon as they saw the "Physical Testing Laboratory" marking?

Anonymous

As others pointed out, changing caps could certainly help. If all else fails, I had good luck adding new solder or reheating solder joints. Holding a soldering iron on the joints for no more than 3 seconds, or until the solder flows correctly, could bridge the cracks. I would start with the IC legs, transistor legs, then the components in the vicinity of the burn marks on the battery. Any weird looking solder joints too, discoloured and etc. If you plan to do this, be careful with the wires, as the insulation on the component side can melt a bit, even with 3 seconds. No guarantees though, as I usually do this in desperation.

Anonymous

I would like to take care of it for you. We've chatted before. It's totally fascinating and could also do video of the repair for you.

SuperTekBoy

You almost want to keep the case open and put it in a frame to hang on your wall. :)