MarsOrbiter - Installation Ender3/pro/v2 Cr10 (Patreon)

Base Screws:

• 4x~6x - M3x6 - M3x8 will work too, they will just stick out the back (mounting to backplate and mounting hotend, ender3v2 has two extra optional mounting places for extra rigidity)
• 1x - M3x8 (connecting two printed part together)
• 4x - M3x30 (front fan)

Orbiter 1.5:

• 2x - M3 nuts
• 2x - M3x10 - M3x12 will dig into plastic but will work too

BMG mount:

• 2~4 - M3x8 - if using the two part version use the extra two screws to secure them together

bltouch - crtouch:

• 2x - m3x6 when not using nuts - M3x8 when wanting to use optional M3 nuts
• 2x - M3 nuts, optional

Dragon & Dragonfly BMO rigid mount:

• 4x - M2.5x8 (included with your hotend, check the box)
• 2x - M3x8 up to M3x12 (to secure the two printed part together)

1 - Secure your hotend mount
For Dragon, Dragonfly BMO, Rapido, V6 remember to mount to the backplate first before attaching the hotend.
Top left screw for Ender3v2 is screwed from the back. From the front on other ender3/pro CR10

2 - Route Bltouch/CRTouch/Probes. It's a tight fit, but if you push the connector sideways it will go through relatively easily

The ADXL345 on these picture is from an older version of the shroud before supporting Adafruit's version, they now reside on the right side, you might as well install it now.

3 - Route left fan, and preinstall the M3x6 that is behind the left fan. (You might as well preinstall the other screws, on M3x6 on the outside left for ender3v2 only, and one M3x8 on the right wall, that will go into the hotend mount for added rigidity)

4- Route the right fan.

5 - Route the hotend fan, it's getting tight you can either use a hex tool to push the connector carefully, or go through the right fan area. (if you still have the 3pin fan like with a Noctua connector you will have no choice be go through the right fan area)

6 - preinstall at least the left screw of the bltouch (we'll need to remove the right screw later for the left fan screw/pin that sits behind)

7 - You can now secure the  hotend fan (M3x25 or M3x30)and the right fan (use included printable pin or M4x20)

8 - You can now place the shroud over the hotend mount, careful with hotend cable. Then secure everything.

8 - don't forget the screw behind the left fan

9 - now you can secure the left fan (either use printable pin found in the extras ), and the BLtouch/CRTouch or your swappable probe. M4x20 for the side fan or printable pin

10 - The bowden tube length is the hardest thing to get right, I know the Orbiter 1.5 has an 11mm hole, so add an extra 11mm from the top surface fo the shroud. You'll have to figure it out yourself with Orbiter2.0, BMG and Sherpa.

The length of screw will depend on the Direct drive setup your have, Orbiter 1.5 will need M3x10 or M3x12 (and dig into the plastic a bit)
Also connect all your fan connector (or do soldering like I used to do) and clean up everything, zip tie etc

Done - now setup your config, probe X,Y,Z offset, mesh min max.

BLtouch / CRtouch (integrated or swappable probe version)

• stock hotend: offset X is -52.7mm , Y is -15.5mm
• Dragon Fly BMS: offset X is -52.7mm , Y aprox -14
• dragon, Dragonfly BMO, V6, Rapido: offset X is -52.7mm, Y is -7.5 mm

Value may need to be ajusted in Y a bit depending on hotend
Physical printer max X to 247 (goes beyond printable area to get the probe to be as close to the right side as possible, your slicer will take care of not printing beyond the 225mm)
physical printer max Y to 229

(starting values to be safe, adjust them more precisely to your printer, depending on your hotend )
In klipper those are the actually bltouch head coordinates.
mesh min = 20, 20
Mesh max = 184 , 203

Then see if you can push closer to the edge and change those values

With wrong values (like positive bltouch offset instead of negative, you can probe outside the bed and crash your hotend so double check everything and be ready to kill the power)