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Zaxxon Needs Help! (Patreon)

Published:
2018-11-09 20:43:39
Imported:
2021-10

Content

In search of refurbished monitors...

Files

Zaxxon Needs Help!

In search of refurbished monitors... Join Team FranLab!!!! Become a patron and help support my YouTube Channel on Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/frantone - Music by Fran Blanche - Frantone on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/frantone/ Fran on Twitter - https://twitter.com/contourcorsets Fran's Science Blog - http://www.frantone.com/designwritings/design_writings.html FranArt Website - http://www.contourcorsets.com

Comments

Anonymous

I used Andys Arcade to buy some electronics (displays, drivers) about 6 months ago. He was responsive to questions I had at the time. Their store apparently was subsequently shut down and I don't believe he replied to an inquiry I sent after that. My thought was possibly he might be able to point you in a direction since he collects arcade games and is (was?) in the business of finding parts for them.

Anonymous

Phwooo... that's a weird one. I myself don't know much about CRTs, but I would sort the power supply first as a fault there can cause all kinds of weirdness elsewhere and mimic almost any other failure condition. Not sure where they're getting appropriate RGB CRTs for these things, that's always been a bit of a concern with CRT equipment. I know, when my dad worked with the old CRT radarscopes, when the tubes wore they would be renewed by actually cutting the neck off with a hot-knife and new phosphor would be sprayed down onto the face, then the neck replaced and the tube drawn down to a vacuum again, but this is not possible with a color tube AFAIK.

God 420

i have a monitor from a vandalized machine the trick is the fraught on sending each other these heavy things seeing that i am in Canada

Anonymous

Just found this on eBay. Will it work for you? <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wells-Gardner-19-picture-tube-only-for-model-4900-/352369353279?redirect=mobile" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wells-Gardner-19-picture-tube-only-for-model-4900-/352369353279?redirect=mobile</a>

Bill Karkula

Hi Fran - join this full size arcade collector's forum and post what you need there or scan their for sale parts section: <a href="https://forums.arcade-museum.com/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://forums.arcade-museum.com/</a>

Anonymous

First order of approach, check the drive signals on the neck board for the three colors. It looks like the driver circuit for the guns have broken down. Sometimes it's once IC, other times it's discrete transistors. Even try swapping R/G/B signals just to trace it down. Grounding any of the gun inputs will give you a fully colored screen, and will show you that the gun is good.

Anonymous

In the same theme as Zapro , -- If i understood what you said that it worked fine before move then I would go for the elimination of the shit that might have

Anonymous

caused the problem,, -- a hard jolt that might have caused the to move yoke on the back if crt during moving.

Anonymous

Also check for cold solder joints on neck board

Travis Snoozy

I volunteer with a nonprofit organization that handles a lot of arcade cabinets (and, as a consequence, a lot of arcade cabinet repairs). I've put out an inquiry with them to see if there's anybody in the area who'd be willing to help you out.

Anonymous

I would talk to "shango66" on you tube he ha may have the parts you need or know where to get them. Just a thought

Anonymous

I never worked on an arcade CRT, but I put myself through college by working in a TV repair shops when the CRT was king. My speciality was CRT replacement, so I have seen a lot of them. What I saw in the video makes me suspicious of the power supply more than the CRT. I would definitely check all the grid voltages and bias voltages on the unit first. The inverted luminance is and blurred focus are also symptomatic of voltage issues. While it could be the CRT, that is usually more likely to be low cathode emmisivity so one or more colors goes dim (like your blue). I found a service manual online and the particular monitor is a Wells Gardner 19K 4675 on the parts list but an Electrohome G07-907 on the schematic. Electrohome is a more likely brand for this. Believe it or not this 19VJTP22 CRT still shows to be available from Sears Parts for $269 as CRT 23112753. I would love to try and fix this for you, but I am in Texas and imagine shipping would be a bear. Let me know if you want copies of any of the docs or if I can help any other way. Good luck, your plate is sure full right now.

Anonymous

Very unlikely the CRT was damaged in transit - You should see the way they used to get handled in the CRT TV days! Though I've seen cases where the scan yoke was detached and slid back along the neck. Realigning this is quite a tricky job. What you see there is horizontal smearing, which is very likely a video driver fault. (The CRT is stood on end!) Starting point is to 'scope the CRT cahodes (or video OP collectors) to see if you are getting a sensible drive waveform. Use a x10 probe of course. and beware of live chassis (Unlikely, but possible) and scope earth issues. Also check the video driver supply (usually 200v or so) for line-rate ripple, often fed from the LOPT and the smoothing cap may have dry-jointed. If not used to CRT work, beware of: *Imposion risk if glass is struck. Wear eye protection if changing a CRT. *EHT side cap (25kV) -This remains charged so needs discharging with a HV probe if you want to disconnect it. Never short it to chassis as that can blow ICs. If you have no probe then you will usually get away with shorting to the CRT earthing spring using a well-insulated screwdriver and croc lead. Just, never to chassis. Best to use a resistive probe though. *Focus connection on CRT base (5kV) Not much current but can be a surprise. *Line output transistors, BU508 TO3 or the like, and scan connector on deflection yoke. About 1kV and a fair amount of current. Probably the most dangerous area. About the only time I've come close to killing myself was when a metal desk lamp touched the line output heatsink. When working on this kind of gear, use one hand only and keep the other hand clear of earthed objects. Rubber soled shoes, not leather soles which are not a good insulator. Or stand on a rubber mat. Key fact, where electricity is concerned it takes two connections to kill you.

Nuts 'n' Proud

Fran, I hope with help you can get your arcade game working again. Best wishes.

Anonymous

not alot more I can add, I have a history of both arcade machine manufacture and worked in probably one of the last 15/17/21 CRT tube plants as an LG test engineer, it doesnt seem to be the tube, the shadowmask and gun are both fine, as is the deflection yolk as you have a raster across the screen. you can of course use an old tv crt in there, apart from the signal input there is little difference. I'd check the power supplies first. the game board puts out an RGB signal so try that on another old tv first.