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Hello loves -

Greetings from the belly of a metal skybird hurtling from LAX to Auckland. I just wrote a little shorter draft of this on Instagram and it inspired a longer piece of writing. I started thinking about scuttling, and Instagram only lets you write so many words. (So if you read that post, this one is much longer).

The universe moves in strange ways, as usual.

During our last few hours in Los Angeles, where we’d laid/stopped over en route to New Zealand to visit family and deliver the Dolls New Years Extravaganza, I decided to take Ash to Long Beach, to the aquarium, with Uncle Doug and Aunt Rita. But when we got there, it was sold out. Sold out? The aquarium? Okay.

Not far from the aquarium is where the RMS Queen Mary has been docked for decades. This ship has history with me.

My scottish great-grandfather, James McInnes, who grew up on the Isle of Skye, helped build this ship in the late 1920s, right before he emigrated to New York. He was a welder in Glasgow, where the Queen Mary was put together by thousands of humans.


(Building Her)

Shortly after that, my great-grandpa James left his home in Scotland forever, and boarded another massive ship bound for Ellis Island in New York City to join the children and wife he’d sent off ahead of him.

His daughter - my grandmother Christiana - met my grandfather Alfred (who’d emigrated himself from Deal, England - the tale is that he “Jumped Ship” in New York harbor and deserted the British Merchant Marine) and together, they produced my mom, Kathy.

My family makes ships and moves around on ships.


My family leaves places.

The Queen Mary crossed the ocean 1,001 times before retiring at a port in Long Beach in the late 1960s, where she became a hotel and tourist attraction.


(RMS Maiden Voyage - from Southampton, UK)

So instead of showing Ash fish, we showed him the ship that his great-great-grandfather helped build.


(Ash, hiding behind his magic wand)


(Uncle Doug n’ me)

Uncle Douglas told me that the community is in deep discussions about whether to allow the ship to stay parked here.

It’s a valuable parking spot for expensive cruise ships. The Queen Mary is a historic document. People argue.

If they moved the ship, they’d probably send her to China where she’d be salvaged and turned into other stuff - or they’d have to scuttle her.

Scuttling - the delineate sinking of a ship. It’s always fascinated me.

There’s no separate bin for throwing away large ships. Nope. They’d tow her majesty out to sea and send her to the bottom. I can see her down there, miles below the surface, sparking in the dark, rusting, rotting, breathing, decaying. The metalwork of my great-grandfather turning into a hotel for millions of fish and coral and algae and barnacles.

From wiki: Scuttling may be performed to dispose of an abandoned, old, or captured vessel; to prevent the vessel from becoming a navigation hazard; or as an act of self-destruction to prevent the ship from being captured by an enemy force (or, in the case of a vessel engaged in illegal activities, by the authorities)

Sometimes I feel like we should scuttle the whole lot. America. New York. New Zealand. Humanity. Maybe we could just toss the whole lot overboard and feed something else. We’ve had a good run.

Sometimes I want to scuttle my entire history.

Send it off to feed the fishes.

As an act of self-destruction to prevent it from being captured by an enemy force.

Now we’re sitting in a modern sky-ship headed towards Aotearoa for a few weeks (at least).

I spent over two years living in New Zealand, by accident. Was it an accident? Covid raged elsewhere; I chose to be there. Was my great-grandfather choosing to leave Scotland an accident?


(there’s James, on the right, with my great-grandmother).

When I heard the first Air New Zealand employee at the check-in desk greet me with a “Kia Ora” I nearly burst into tears; when a group of Māori folks delivered a Pōwhiri near the gate, i DID burst into tears. (There’s a little video of that here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm9TWd_Jp7D/?igshid=NTdlMDg3MTY= ….a Pōwhiri - “po-FEAR-ee” - is a Māori welcoming song/ceremony).

Aotearoa.

My community. My home, my job, my life, my place?

This I know:

Thank you for your patronage. I want to remind you that without my patrons support, I wouldn’t have been able to financially afford staying in New Zealand for those two years. It was this group that kept my afloat, and it will always be part of my story. And I don’t take that for granted, any more than I take for granted that New Zealand Immigration let me stay when so many other Americans were forced to fly home. I love you all so much. Thank you.

And thank you, Aotearoa. Your country held me safely when so many failed me, welcomed and took care of me and my son when so many other things let me down. We were so fragile. Weird immigrants.

I still can’t believe this all happened.

I still don’t know where our home is.

Maybe I never will.

We make ships.

We build them, we ride them, we scuttle them when we have to.

See you soon, Kiwis.

Kia Ora.

Xx

A



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Comments

Anonymous

My father was Superintendent of Welders at Long Beach Naval Shipyard. He was in charge of the team that put her into her permanent home there. We visited when she was in dry dock, and all painted in primer. She was an enormous grey lady to tiny little me. Years later, when I was in high school, we had our prom on the Queen Mary. One of the guys in our group said they were going to sail her out. I assured him that my father made certain she would never move a single inch ever again.

Anonymous

My great grandfather was a ship builder, actually a ship painter - on the Tyne in Walker, Newcastle. Although he didn’t work on the Queen Mary, he did build a large and detailed scale model of that ship - around 3 ft long, mounted in a glass case. He built models of other ships I’m told, it was a hobby of his, but those have been lost or given away. This one was kept and it’s a family heirloom now. I loved it as a kid. When I see pictures of the real thing, it’s the model that I see - it’s backwards in my head. Would love to see the real thing.Safe travels.

VitAnyaNaked

<p style="color: #008600;">Thank you for this candid and long post. It was exciting to read. Hope you have a great holiday in New Zealand.</p>

Anonymous

Don't shuttle your life, Amanda. We love you ❤

Amanda Eckert

as someone who has spent years living on the sea, i’d like to offer up my favorite maritime quote: “a smooth sea never made a a skilled sailor.” ❤️

Terry Green

I'm very glad you were able to show Ash the Queen Mary. I was probably about his age when my uncle (who was visiting us in LA) insisted we go down to the harbor and take the tour. Left an indelible impression!

Anonymous

thanks for (another) interesting and thoughtful post amanda. i hope a way can be found to retain her for many more years as a tourist attraction and museum. however if (and when) this grand old ship must be lost, it seems to me that the best outcome would be scuttling, but properly done. once all the remaining contaminants are removed (most of the fuel would have removed after decommissioning), and a well-chosen site is found, a sunken ship gradually becomes a haven for a miriad of marine life. a once fuel-oil burning ship - magnificent though she was in her day - would be transformed into the basis of a life-sustaining ecosystem. a nice evolution it seems to me.

James Cowie

AFP....Welcome back to a decent time zone and Aeoteroa ... (the land of the long white cloud) ... As an ex pat Scot now living in part of the "New World"(Australia) and having dragged/motorcycled my sorry Scots arse around most of the other parts of it, US, Canada,Southern Africa,India Asia et al. How our not distant relatives got there is never what seems to be written down in immigration papers and history books. Waves of Scots migrated/were exiled/transported to or simply forced to move to the cities in the South to abject poverty then pay their way "across the water". A play by John McGrath "The Cheviot, the Stag and the Black, Black Oil" or social/economic histories have better explanations of Scots leaving Scotland, than the pretty pleasant ones regurgitated for family gatherings (don't scare the kids Jock) As for shipbuilding in Glasgow, Belfast, Newcastle and Southampton, social histories, poetry and songs abound ... Ally Hulett's "Suicide Town" springs to mind about after the H &amp; W yards were closed in Govan and what happened to the people. The story of their opening in 1912 is bizarre. How much do we need monuments ? Be they a French women with a tit out, a Middle Eastern guy nailed to a tree, a house of a particular colour, a boat,a garden a Palace ? How do they replace the stories of how they got there ? Do they not just tell the story of the monument, not it's builder and how/why it was built ?

Nikki Mierjeski

Me and my parents had brunch on the Queen Mary after my graduation from CSULB. It was lovely, I have fond memories. Went back with a college friend (who's a self-proclaimed pirate) several years later and we got too drunk on the ship's bar and screamed on the dock: I'M ON A BOOAATT! I hope the city keeps her, but I also like the general idea of scuttling. I also worked at the Aquarium of the Pacific and never experienced it selling out before? Weird.

Anonymous

Tēnā koe e hoa! I have to admit - I was shocked to see that you had returned to Aotearoa New Zealand. Given everything that happened I presumed it would be a couple of years before we had the privilege of hosting you and your whanau again. I hope the community you built here is still around to support you - and if not, please reach out. I hope you enjoy your time with us again. Much aroha to you and and Ash 💜💜

Anonymous

Welcome home :-)

Anonymous

I'm glad Ash got to know a bit more about his great-great-grandfather, even if it is a shame about the aquarium. I've never been to Aotearoa, but my own great-great-grandmother, Julia, was born there, on a military base in Wanganui. Her dad was a bit of a traveller too - he was Irish, and he joined the army, the army sent him to a tiny island in the English Channel called Jersey where he met his wife, and then the army sent him around the world to Aotearoa where Julia and her sister were born. And then after his discharge he came back to Jersey (where I live now!).