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It may seem sacrilege to take a vintage display like this apart, but if I take mine apart it means you don't have to take yours apart.

It did go back together again afterwards.  In a way it could be fun to make an LED retrofit panel for the back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_TkJ5q7UTg

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Vintage projection display teardown

I think I bought these from a shop called RME in Glasgow many decades ago. They're "IN-LINE" projection displays manufactured by Counting Instruments Ltd in the UK. Displays like this would have been used in electromechanical factory machines and counting and weighing applications. Because so little of the light from the tungsten lamps is used, the displays are very dim, so they need a light shield if they are in a brightly lit area. Control is by switching AC or DC to the appropriate digit's tungsten lamp. I worked on old equipment like this in the past and it was notable for the huge wiring looms. Quite intimidating to work on initially until you get familiar with the circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Comments

Mort

nice bit of kit i got my self a CRT type it a CRT Soviet ILD3 Series Cathode Ray Tube it just makes a dot at the end but when you got a load and i mean a load you could do a display with them they were only used i Russia only thing is i have not power the two i got as part of the power supply is bit on the high side like 6000v LOL but i am making sum thing with sum help a high power supply so soon i hope to power them up

bigclive

The original jumbotron video walls were a matrix of tiny RGB pixel cathode ray tubes.

Ymir the Frost Giant

I dare say a bank of say eight of these could not be multiplexed, so would require an incredible amount of wiring - and driving - and as you say, power.I wonder if there was a momentary doubling of inputs, to allow for one bulb dimming as the next one warmed up.