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More importantly, is it worth actually fixing one of these very cheaply made appliances?   The answer is yes.  If you can fix something safely then it reduces landfill and can make a huge difference to those living on a budget, or where getting a new one locally is difficult.  (Not that a heater is budget friendly!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBmzl4szlpE

I suppose if I was really desperate then I might bypass safety features, but I'd never trust the device to be left alone on a flammable surface.

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I'm not sure where Ralfy has been storing this heater. The contacts and the plug pins were heavily oxidised. That makes a refreshing change from him restricting airflow and wrecking thermal trips and fuses. (My brother Ralfy and I are polar opposites in every way. He's not technical at all.) The thermal cutouts in these cheap heaters are not rated for many cycles. They have tiny cheap contacts that are expected to break up to 8 Amps in use, and often fail after a few operations. Often arcing enough to trip themselves repeatedly. It is very important not to bridge out the thermal fuses in these products despite the temptation of an instant fix with the fuse being fitted later (it often never happens). The next stage of failure after the bimetallic trips fail in a welded state is generally complete meltdown, and 2kW in a plastic shell doesn't end well. The tarnishing of the cheap contacts is a sad byproduct of people "investing" in important electrical metals like copper and silver, driving the cost up and resulting in the use of cheap alloys that result in early failure. The paper strip trick for cleaning contacts is ancient. You can still buy packs of contact cleaning strips that are very slightly abrasive and impregnated with an oil that protects the contacts from further oxidation. Do not use coarse files on contacts as it can remove important contact layers. Note that it is sometimes easier and safer to just buy a new product when attempting to repair cheap disposable junk like these heaters. You can get better made heaters at higher cost that will last longer and are built to a safer standard. As mentioned in the video, always be aware of whether things are plugged in when you are working on them. It's very common for people repairing home appliances to accidentally leave the device plugged in after testing or unplug the wrong appliance. The more tests you make, the higher the odds of you accidentally leaving it plugged in. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Comments

Johnson Lam

Any better alternative component of thermal cut-off? After long time the physical property changed (due to moist or dirt) it should fail more frequently.

Anonymous

it looks like it's already warped

Jim Hewlett

It might be worth building an extra circuit so that it doesn't work in the dark, or do you think he'd put a candle under the blanket as well?

Andrew Donaldson

Corrosion, is why I always keep a sheet of very fine sandpaper in my toolbox.

N. Shaun Tremayne

I have replaced that switch with a thermal switch from CPC by HONEST-WELL they have a life of 100,000 as cleaning did not last long on my dad's heaters. Just before he passed he turned all the electrical heaters, Rayburn and loaded coal fire high which when we came into the house paper was crispy. Opening the door was like opening an oven door and took a step back. So I went round fitting extra switching to all electrical heaters to keep heat down!!

Anonymous

Is it possible the fumes from a Laphroaig Islay Mist Limited Edition 17 year old Whisky could corrode copper contacts? I don't really know......

Mike Page

We've had a few of these in the office and got rid of them because of the NOISE. Rattle rattle rattle! Replaced with slightly posh quiet ones.

Phil in the kitchen

I was wondering if that option (fine sandpaper/emery paper, rather than plain paper) would save BC having to endure Ralfy coming back ‘cap-in-hand’ for another contact cleaning, after spending another couple of months in a moist bothy? Or are those abrasives too harsh on the contacts?

Anonymous

Our company published a Safety Bulletin about this type of heater in April 2020, as they'd almost caused a fire under someone's desk. 6 months later when we requested a heater for our cold workshop two of them turned up... Make of that what you will!

bigclive

It's cheap and available. My own preference is for a more industrial metal cased unit, although the one I got runs the fan with extreme force continuously.

Mark Trombley

You need to add some electronics to his heaters so they start screaming when they overheat. Actually not sure if they should scream or start swearing.

bigclive

I may give it a light misting of WD40 so it emits stinky smoke when he uses it.

Nuts 'n' Proud

I bought one of those heaters in France. After a month it stopped working. Went back to the supermarket and got a refund. Bought a 3 bar (400 watt) halogen heater from Amazon. Saves electricity I rarely use 2 or 3 bars. I don't trust the wire nuts on the blue wires.

bigclive

That would be enhanced with a wicking material that fogged off and then ignited.

Ewen McNeill

Also Ralfy might like a heated blanket (electric blanket but in a “throw over blanket” style) as the “stay warm until the fire heats the room” option. Safer than the electric heater under a blanket, but a similar “warmed by the blanket” effect. Some of my friends swear by them. Ewen

Anonymous

I have an almost identical heater but it has a little “anti tilt” switch on the bottom (A plastic rod which is pushed up to close a contact when the heater is vertical but which springs open if the heater falls over). Given you were running this unit while horizontal I’m guessing that feature wasn’t present on Ralfy’s ?

bigclive

These fan heaters don't have that here, but the radiant heaters do.