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This is a redesign of an existing panel to make it even cheaper by basically removing almost all of the circuitry.

But it's OK.  Because we can reverse engineer it and put the circuitry back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9U2fCE9Sps

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The accountants have clearly had a part in the redesign of the circuitry on this classic Chinese light panel. They are intended for use in ceiling bulkhead fixtures, where the new panel sticks to the steel backplate with magnets. This type of light has no easy way to change a lamp. You will literally have to turn off the power and hook wires into terminal blocks instead. The earlier versions used buck regulators with no flicker, but the new ones have cheaped out in every way possible, creating a very flickery light that has the classic over-driven LEDs. There is no other explanation for this other than profit above all else. In this video I do several experiments to stop the flicker and reduce the power dissipation to give higher efficiency and a much longer LED life. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Comments

Dave Frederick

Very cool Big Clive. Thanks. I only wonder how much of a hassle was it to solder those resistors on at the end there. Guessing the 500 degree soldering iron was helpful there.

Curtis Hoffmann

Devo BGM lyrics: "Hack it, hack it good."

Mike Hughes

These hacks are great fun, every light bulb in our house has been given the Big Clive treatment !

iamdarkyoshi

Posted this on the vid itself too, but I'm curious what the efficiency and power factor would be like with the capacitor after the drivers instead of before them, that way they're not dissipating extra power. I seem to recall a prior video testing something similar...

Anonymous

I like how you demonstrated all the usual suspects when it came to improving the circuit. It was edutainment for sure!

Jon Knight

Am I right in thinking the pads you soldered the electrolytic cap to were actually labelled R1 and were for the discharge resistor? Could it go on the unused C1 pads?

Gadgetman

Dildomatic! 😂 It sounds more like a condom dispenser than an LED light! 😂 How do they come up with these names?! 😂

Anonymous

They didn't, Clive did, Great thumb nail though, with a bit of editing.

Joel Murphy

New method of video editing with liquid-paper-tape! Looks like you knuckle-busted your left index... i get those from time to time... Nice to see yyou using the battery powered iron! Great hack! Thanks!

bigclive

The resistors were soldered onto the component leads, which was less of an issue than directly onto the aluminium core PCB.

bigclive

With the capacitor across the LEDs the current regulator chips will initially see very high power dissipation as they drop near full mains voltage. Not sure how they'd deal with that.

bigclive

I used the R1 position because it had the correct spacing for the capacitor.

iamdarkyoshi

Guess there's only one way to find out. Smoke is an acceptable outcome. Curious if the regulators can actually deal with a dead short as well, or if they detonate.