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Here is the final episode of the hand vise build folks, I'm thrilled with the way that it turned out. I will draw the winner of the tool in about 12 hours.Enjoy!

-------------- Video Notes: --------------- 

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Files

Wedge Style Hand Vise - Part 5

Wedge Style Hand Vise, Part 5, by Clickspring. In this video, I make the brass jaw ends, and assemble the tool. ________________________________________________________ A very special thank you to Patrons Dan Keen, Samuel Irons and Sean Kuyper. ________________________________________________________ 00:06 In this final episode of the Hand Vise build series, I complete the tool by making the jaw ends from this solid chunk of brass. 00:15 I'll be forming both parts side by side for most of the process, and although I've chosen to make them from brass, they could easily be made from copper, bronze or even mild steel if that better suits your purpose. 00:28 Brass is an excellent choice if you're mostly holding on to steel parts, and you don't want them marked, and of course its a pleasure to work with. But its a soft material and it bruises easily. 00:39 So it requires a bit of forward planning to protect the final surfaces, especially if the parts are to be riveted into place. So with that in mind, I reduced the stock to size on the mill, leaving on a small margin for some final finishing cuts at the end of the process. 00:54 Now most of the positioning of the features will be done using the DRO on the mill, but I do need a layout line to determine the depth of the cut for one of the angled surfaces. 01:03. And I'm sketching a simple plan on the part itself to keep me on track. The 2 red areas are waste stock, and this corner will be my datum reference for positioning the rivet holes in a moment. I used an edge finder to pick up that reference edge, and then formed the rivet holes. 01:54 A sine bar resting on gage blocks is a convenient way to position the work for the angled cut, although it does require dusting off some of that half forgotten trigonometry from high school. And I've learned the hard way that as much as I probably should be able to do this in my head, I tend to make a far fewer mistakes if I scratch it all out on a pad along the lines of something like this. 03:39 So I marked out the cut position, and then used a slitting saw to split the work. A light facing pass cleans up the rough saw cut, leaving two identical embryo parts ready for the next part of the process. 04:02 The next feature to go in is the slot that will accept the steel jaws made in the previous episode. And I'm going to use the same extra long end mill that I used to form the slots in the center pivot block. 04:13 In that case the extra length was required, to get to the bottom of a deep slot. But in this case, there's no doubt that the stick out is excessive for the job at hand. 05:02 And you can see how the holes in the brass will work as a nice drilling template to carry those holes all of the way through the steel. But before I do that, Its more convenient to put in the grooves of the jaw ends first. I'm using this single flute milling cutter to mill out the V shape, using a high spindle rpm with a modest depth of cut and feed rate. 05:36 A light touch with a needle file tidies up the burrs formed by that V cutter and these surfaces are ready for a finishing pass at the end of the process. Next up are the rivets, which are a straight forward enough part to make. 05:51 Although I did take a bit of care to make sure they were quite cylindrical, and turned to the precise dimension for a solid interference fit when they're hammered into place. A light chamfer on the end also helps them travel through the hole when being inserted. 06:23 The jaw ends were pushed firmly onto the jaws, and the previously formed holes were used to locate the workpiece underneath the spindle. 07:15 The rough rivet ends were then skimmed off with a fly cutter, leaving barely any trace that rivets have been used to join the parts. I used the belt sander to contour the remaining surfaces flush with the steel jaw arms. 07:40 And off camera, I took a light skim cut to reduce the parts to final dimension. And finally I used oil stones and 800 grit abrasive paper to clean up the corners and leave a presentable brushed finish over all of the surfaces. 08:11 OK, that's all of the bits and pieces complete, so lets put them all together and see what we've got. The tool feels quite well balanced in the hand, and I really like the action of those little return springs, they've got a nice snappy feel to them. And here's a quick look at the range of the jaws. :09:21 This is fully opened, which can accommodate stock a bit larger than the 5mm bore. And this is the tool fully closed. As you've seen from this video series, the tool requires a reasonable investment of time and materials to complete. 09:39 But there aren't many projects that will deliver an outcome more useful than this hand vise. Its a cracking little tool, and I think a terrific addition to any home shop. Thanks for watching, I'll catch you on the next video. Wedge Style Hand Vise, Part 5, by Clickspring.

Comments

Graeme Brumfitt

GDay Chris, That was the best morning spent watching metal porn ever, TFS. G

Jess Neal

I commented on Youtube but I'll comment here too... Turned out awesome Chris :)

Anonymous

Fantastic! Can't believe you're giving it away as it really must be incredibly uselful (like you said). Did you build a second one off camera? ;-)

matt stott

Fantastic work! Your tips and methods for finishing are always an eye opener and always impressive (now to find myself some smaller slip stones...)

Anonymous

Amazing work! Its great to see this project finally finished!

clickspring

Hey Matt I get my slip stones from artcotools: <a href="http://www.artcotools.com/norton-arkansas-stones/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.artcotools.com/norton-arkansas-stones/</a>

Sebastian Howe

Looks great, amazing how those rivets just disappear.

Anonymous

Gorgeous work Chris, as always! You just can't buy tools like this anymore. It sure would come in handy as I finish my clock. :)

Anonymous

Fantastic work Chris! Your videos are such fantastic inspiration for making things. I hope you can keep making videos for years to come.

Anonymous

It came out marvelously, I'm sure that whoever wins it will treasure it!

Jeff, Practical Renaissance

I love the work with the brass rivets! Amazing tool, it looks so brilliantly handy (and beautiful as well!)

My Growth Rings

Chris, Please tell me you made one for yourself while you were making mine, otherwise I'm going to feel weird taking that beauty from you. Either way I'm sure I'll get over it. Scott

Robert

That turned out great. Do you add a small amount of thread locker to the screws so they can't back out over time?

My Growth Rings

One of these days I'm gonna learn to read through the comments before I comment. Nah, probablyu not.

Anonymous

What a great looking little tool Chris, brilliant finish. How do those gauge blocks stick together? Have you thought about releasing a DVD of projects or something like that?

David Sinclair

You are one of my idols in terms of pedagogical style.

Damian Sutter

Simply mesmerizing - as are all of your videos! You're a true Inspiration. I have just bought a lathe :) the first project will be a scribe :) Looking forward to more videos!

PJ

Stunning Chris! Fabulous build and grateful for the plans and getting to watch a master build it with aplomb! It will last several lifetimes I'm sure. Thank for sharing all of this wondrous Stuff!!! ~¿@ ~PJ

bo

Been looking forward to this for a LONG time mate...

Anonymous

Looks awsome well worth the time to make it

clickspring

I think its a vacuum thing, once you wring them together they stick like glue, I reckon Arnie would struggle to break them apart!

clickspring

Hey Robert, the screws in the prototype are still quite secure so I think its probably not required, but it can't hurt if you want to add it. Cheers mate :)

Paul Busby

Brilliant as always. What is the screw driver you used at the end? What will the next project be?

Anonymous

Such amazing craftsmanship like always! Fantastic result!

Anonymous

Beautiful!

Anonymous

By Far one of the best series I have watched. Thanks Chris! Looking forward to whats next. My shop is still gearing up to where I might be able to produce something, but lots more practice before I can make anything that looks that good. Keep it up.

clickspring

Hey Paul, the screwdriver is a small clamp style hand vise loaded with a scrap of brass filed to a screwdriver blade shape. I find its a great way to get exactly the correct size blade for wide custom screws, and the brass safeguards the screw head finish. Next Patron Series project is an absolute doozy - Its a massive project, and I am still working on the prototype, but its looking great so far. It will be a long term project, so its likely that there will be several Patron Series projects on the go at once as I build a few tools that have been requested by patrons, to mix things up a bit. I'm sitting on the details for now, but the first reveal of the details will be here on Patreon once I get the clock project over the line. Cheers mate :)

Anonymous

As usual solid design with perfect execution. I wonder how many tries it will take me to make something approximating your vise. Oh well, back to work dragging order out of chaos in my new shop that is still under construction. Thanks

Anonymous

Just amazing. Your attention to detail continues to be an inspiration.

Scott Clausen

Such a great project! Please have many more. It's so addicting watching these projects being built.

cwemslie

Not much more satisfying than having a solid, well-made tool that will last. Wonderful job, Chris!

Tom Colson

A fine finish to a great series. I hope the success of this project and all the appreciation you've received in the comments here and on YouTube will keep you fired up to make many more. It's great to watch your Patreon support continue to increase month by month...that's about the surest sign I can think of that folks appreciate what you do!

Anonymous

What a great series! And an awesome tool!

Anonymous

fantastic work as always. so much fun to watch

Anonymous

Wonderful project. I enjoy watching people do something they are very good at. Your videos I enjoy a lot.

Anonymous

Awesome man. Thanks!

Anonymous

Excellent work Chris!

Anonymous

I really do enjoy your videos, Chris, and I especially appreciate the excellent quality. It's nice to see gage blocks in use as they were intended. As to why gage blocks wring, no one really knows, though there are many theories. Check out the "Gage Block Handbook" from the US NIST, Appendix B on wringing films. The whole book is dry science and other dark statistical magic, but this part is at least written with a bit of humor. Again, great work and I can't wait for the next project.

clickspring

Definitely more on the way Scott, very much appreciate your encouragement, thank you :)

clickspring

Definitely fired up Tom, I'm buzzing with new project ideas for the channel! Very much appreciate your support and encouragement, thank you :)

clickspring

Thanks for sharing that Robert, that was a terrific read! Amazing to think that we still have such a poor understanding of such a commonly observed phenomena. Link below for those interested: <a href="https://www.nist.gov/sites/default/files/documents/calibrations/mono180.pdf" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.nist.gov/sites/default/files/documents/calibrations/mono180.pdf</a>

Anonymous

Awesome! So enjoyable to watch, your videos never seem long enough. Nice one. :-))

Jeff Klingelhoefer

I was lookng through the comments and didn't see this: Can you describe the flycutter you use?

clickspring

Hey Jeff there's a bit of info here: <a href="http://www.clickspringprojects.com/large-diameter-flycutter.html" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.clickspringprojects.com/large-diameter-flycutter.html</a> Let me know if you have any other Q's

Anonymous

Hi Chris, the way you polish the pieces you make is really nice , can you please make some explanation about the material you use for polishing and procedure . Thank you

clickspring

Sure thing Mehdi, I will be doing a lot of polishing in the last episode of the current clock build, so I will cover it then.

Myles Farrell

Chris, I'm making my way through watching all of your videos for a second or tenth time. One thing I've noticed is you always seem to remove the rivet head after peening. Doesn't this dramatically reduce the strength of the joint? I'm wondering why you don't add a small counter sink to peen into? I know it would slightly increase the chance of an inclusion, potentially ruining the seamless look you are going for, but as meticulous as you are with everything I feel like you would be paying enough attention to prevent that. Thanks

clickspring

Hello mate - it depends on the application. Most of the parts that I rivet tend to experience little or no tension load, only very light shear. So it tends not to matter and I usually go for the lower risk path to a seamless fit, and of course more often than not the flush cut finish is a requirement for clearance (eg the B1 assembly on the AM). There would be nothing technically wrong with countersinking under most (all?) circumstances, but I generally see it as introducing an unnecessary risk to the outcome if it serves no essential function. On the occasion that the assembled parts are under tension, or if I would like to guarantee a part is 'pulled' down to a tight seating then I do lightly countersink, its just very rarely required for the work I do - Cheers :)

Myles Farrell

I figured that was the case. Thanks for the quick reply.

Rocinante

Can I get a link to all 5 parts? I scrolled down, but the other vids seem to have fallen off the feed.

clickspring

Hey there Roci, are you able to see the "Load More" button at the bottom of the feed? if not perhaps try a refresh? Contact me direct if that still doesn't sort it out for you. Cheers, Chris.

Paul Devey

I really like your tradition of showing us how to make tools. Also, function you perform is done as an instruction. I am sure your example is helping us at home to make tooling and parts with a professional finish.

Anonymous

in this you use an 801 flux to clean the burn marks. is that the zinc chloride or does other flux work as well. say the 601.

clickspring

Not sure I follow you Tristan - can you give me a time reference to show me what you mean? Cheers, Chris.

Anonymous

sorry, it was in part 4. about 6:40 in. you used a flux to clean oxide from heat buildup. i get a similar oxide when engraving stainless with a laser. i am looking for good ways to clean up the result. ive not seen the 801 flux you use in your video. wondering if other fluxes work as well or if the 801 is special in some way... thanks heaps for the response. i love your videos, and you amoung other peers on youtube have played a big part in sending me down a whole new career pathway. thanks again.

clickspring

Righto, I'm with you now! I'm fairly sure its just a garden variety Zinc Chloride flux, so maybe try a local equivalent and see how you go. Terrific to hear about the new career path, nothing quite like doing something you love :)

Justin Densmore

Unable to view the pdf on my phone. Do i have to download it on a computer?

Anonymous

What's the thing you use as a flathead screwdriver?

clickspring

hey Justin, yes you can d/l onto a PC with adobe acrobat reader installed - cheers :)

clickspring

Hey Misha, that is a small hand vise with a scrap of flat brass held in it to act as the screwdriver blade - the brass reduces the likelihood of scratches or damage to the screw head - cheers :)