Home Artists Posts Import Register
Join the new SimpleX Chat Group!

Content


Files

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 12 - Making The Collets And Other Arbors

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 12, by Clickspring. In this video I make a start on the going train wheel assemblies, by making the wheel collets and arbors, as well as forming the arbor pivots. A wide range of small operations were used to complete this part of the clock build: Marking out, drilling, tapping, and lathe work, as well as the creation of another set of custom screws. Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment. If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ "Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D "Machinery's handbook": http://amzn.to/2pi7XE5 Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2DR5fdb Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2ITfeTa YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: https://amzn.to/2G7ylv6 Sherline Lathe: http://amzn.to/2pnXM19 Sherline WW collets: http://amzn.to/2FYZ7F8 Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: http://amzn.to/2HCOAMX Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: http://amzn.to/2pid6vR For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit http://www.clickspringprojects.com Other Videos to Watch: How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 8 - Making The Barrel Arbor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5KwOi-JkEU Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Making a Finger Plate Clamping Tool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgBM-JVRWgU Ask Me A Question: http://www.clickspringprojects.com/contact.html Abbreviated Transcript: 0:00:49 Now the center wheel collet is a little different from the other's in that it has a pivot built into its profile. And to make that pivot last longer when the clock is in service, I'll be making this collet from drill rod. The other two collets are just simple wheel mountings, so they'll be made from brass. 0:01:01 For materials, I'm making the collets from this rod stock, and the arbors will be made from pivot steel. Pivot steel is a high carbon steel that has been hardened and then tempered to blue. Its tough, but can still be machined, and its reasonably straight as supplied from the manufacturer. 0:01:56 So the first step was to get the collets into basic shape, and they were each formed in essentially the same way. The central bore needs to be a good fit on the arbor, so after drilling out most of the metal, I used a reamer made from the actual arbor stock the collet will be mounted on, 0:03:20 Next I made a start on the arbor pivots, and there are 3 key features to be formed: The pivot itself, the domed end, and the chamfered shoulder. Now pivots need to be concentric with the outside diameter of the stock, which makes them an ideal candidate for turning on a small lathe equipped with 8mm collets. 0:04:34 A graver cuts the hardened steel surprisingly well, and pivot can be turned in a matter of minutes. After cutting the profile, I stoned the pivot surface with a fine oilstone, and then finished it off with a burnisher. 0:04:58 The burnishing work hardens the surface, and gives it a longer service life. The final feature to put in is the chamfer on the edge, which will reduce the shoulder friction with the plate when it's in operation. 0:07:23 So that's the collets complete, next I need the mounting holes for the wheels. drilling template. First the hole locations were marked out on this wheel crossing jig. 0:09:15 The wheel was then fastened into place using a commercial screw, and the other tapping holes were drilled, using the wheel holes as a drilling template. The remaining 2 holes were tapped, and all surfaces deburred with a light touch from a twist drill. Now the process was essentially the same for all three wheels, although there were some minor differences between them. 0:10:07 I took quite a bit of care as I was making the drill extender, to keep the runout of the drill to a minimum, so it still holds position very well, and the feel from the tap extender is just excellent for controlling a small tap. A set of 10BA screws were turned to size, and then hardened, polished and blued. References: John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb: http://www.clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.html WR (Bill) Smith - Graver DVD: "Graver Making And hand Turning For Clockmakers" http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/videos.htm How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 12, by Clickspring.

Comments

Anonymous

Argh, it's so close, I can't wait to see it all put together! Easily my favourite YouTube channel, each new video brightens up my day.

Anonymous

Hi Chris, your videos are extremely informative as well as stunning pieces of art, thank you for putting out such high quality material. What would you say is the best way for someone to get into machining and do you believe there are still opportunities to use the techniques you show or are most machinist jobs changing over to CNC?

PJ

So much info in one video! Beautiful precision work, loved the way the fillet flushed out! Thanks for the squeak overlay too...love that! ~¿@

clickspring

I can't wait either Alex! There's at least 8 more videos to go on the build, covering the escapement, pendulum, motion work etc so plenty more to come :)

clickspring

Thanks for the kind words Jeremy :) I think the best way to get into the sort of machining that I do is to buy a small lathe, and just dive into using it. It's kind of the centerpiece tool for most projects. From there, your taste in projects will direct how things unfold regarding what to learn, what else to buy etc. From what I can tell the manual skills all still apply in most machine shops when the job calls for it, although I don't think they have the luxury of spending a lot of time on the one part like I do :)

clickspring

Honestly, this one took forever to shoot, there were so many ops! I reckon I used virtually every tool in the shop at some point. Glad you like the post prod work, I really enjoy putting 'em in :)

Mark Hatchman

Brilliant, as usual !. Best $3 a month I have ever spent. Now if only I can get through my list of jobs around the house ..............

clickspring

Ha ha! Terrific to hear Mark - Just call it "research" :)

Mike Davey

Chris, great stuff as always. You didn't say anything about checking the diameter of the pivots. Do the pivots need to be to an exact diameter or do you ream the hole in the frame to fit each pivot? It looks like the pivots may be slightly different diameters? Also, I always have to mentally put real sizes to the parts in your videos. They look so big in the videos, but then I realize just how small something like the pivots are. So cool. Thanks for a great weekend view.

clickspring

Hey Mike, yes the pivots are turned to a nominal diameter, and then the pivot hole is reamed to fit. Most of the pivots for this clock are nominally 1.27 mm diameter and one is 1.6mm. I've turned them to be quite close to that, but any deviation is fine, because it is accommodated by the hand reaming of the hole - It's a very practical approach. The pivot hole formation itself is quite interesting too, because it's done with a 5 sided tapered broach, and an oil sink cutter, so the resulting hole is slightly hour glass shaped in cross section for minimum contact area, and maximum angular freedom. Have a great day, Chris.

Tom Colson

The details of hand turned pivots will be very interesting to see. In a world where you've got 0.01mm (or even 0.001!) resolution on your dro, simply going at it with a handheld tool seems impossible. Tom

clickspring

Hey Tom, I agree! When I first saw someone freehand turning pivots this way I thought it was nuts! The interesting thing is that because the pivot holes are formed to match the pivots, the OD only needs to be within the ballpark of the nominal figure. This is a huge get out of jail card, because really the only thing that has to be nailed is the parallel aspect, which is corrected (if required) with the arkansas slip stone. Those old clockmakers were amazingly practical people!