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In this video I make the small assembly that enables the user to drive the mechanism. Its an extra length episode for you folks, so please enjoy!

Cheers,

Chris.

 

 -------------- Video Notes: --------------- 

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The Antikythera Mechanism Episode 5 - The Input Crown Wheel Assembly

The Antikythera Mechanism Episode 5 - The Input Crown Wheel Assembly In this video I make the small assembly that enables the user to drive the mechanism. If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring ________________________________________________________ A very special thank you to Patrons: Sinking Valley Woodworks (http://www.sinkingvalleywoodworks.com) Glenn Trewitt Christopher Warnock Mike Manfrin Andrew Smith Bernd Fischer Rudolph Bescherer Jr Sam Towne Adam Slagle Jack Cause Jeremiah G. Mort Dave Seff Matteo Neville Olof Haggren Stassinopoulos Thomas Florian Ragwitz Larry Pardi Samuel Irons Tim Bray Andre van Soest Pete Askew Norman Lemke ________________________________________________________ You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: "Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D "Gears From The Greeks", Derek de Solla Price: http://amzn.to/2pii4ZD "A Portable Cosmos: Revealing the Antikythera Mechanism, Scientific Wonder of the Ancient World" https://amzn.to/2NoLgIR Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2DR5fdb YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: https://amzn.to/2G7ylv6 Hegner Scroll Saw: https://amzn.to/2IhteVW Kaowool 24" X 12" X 1" 2400 F Ceramic Fiber Insulation: http://amzn.to/2pfsM3d Tix Flux 1/2oz: http://amzn.to/2G85OEZ Tix Solder: http://amzn.to/2G4lUiE Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ Generic Dial Indicator 0.001": http://amzn.to/2FOFTyF Blue Matador Abrasive Paper - https://amzn.to/2IAFiBT Abbreviated Transcript: 0:00:56 Now much like the main solar drive wheel, from our modern perspective, this is clearly not the easiest way to construct the part. So again the question naturally arises, why did The Maker choose this more difficult method? 03:08 Taking care to reheat the work as soon as it started to cool down, and also being careful to not to overheat it. It doesn't take much to melt a small piece of brass like this. A light skim cut on the lathe created a uniform surface, and widened the inside diameter to be a close fit with the central cylinder formed earlier. A touch of soft solder bonds the two parts together, and fills the join in the perimeter of the band. 06:57 Gradual increases in the depth of cut on either side of a single tooth, eventually leave a small triangular land at the tooth apex. At which point the carriage can be locked, and all of the teeth cut at the same setting. I took a light skim cut of the perimeter to remove the small exit burr left by the fly cutter, and then marked out the rectangular hole that will receive the driving arbor. 09:49 I've found that around 0.4 of a millimeter gives a good tight radius to the bend, and allows the metal to bend easily without cracking. The inside corner on the indexing arm, that I made in a previous video, serves as a convenient square reference. 12:27 The wheel assembly could be held up to B1 with a toolmakers clamp, depthed, marked and then permanently fixed in place. But I'd also like to have the back surface of the bracket flush with the side of the main plate, without having to trim that plate after the fact. So that meant making my best guess at the correct depthing at the planning stage, and essentially locking it in at the start of the project. 13:18 With the input assembly position located, the bracket and underlying main plate were drilled out to accept a pair of steady pins. The steady pins now ensure the the accuracy and repeatability of the bracket position. And once clamped firmly, I drilled out the hole for the bracket retaining pin. A quick tidy up of the holes, and that's the bracket complete for now. 16:44 I opened up the matching rectangle marked out in the center of the crown wheel, taking care to ensure a close fit. With the crown wheel assembled on its driving arbor, I marked the retaining pin position, which will ensure a small clamping force from the taper pin once its inserted. 19:05 The friction is quite low, with both wheels showing free and smooth movement. And the gear interaction feels good too, much better than I expected from a triangular tooth form. In fact based on the feel alone, there's not much to give away the fact that its not a modern tooth profile. References: Gears From The Greeks - Derek de Solla Price: http://amzn.to/2pii4ZD The CT and PTM data that the AMRP have made publicly available can be found here: http://www.antikythera-mechanism.gr/data Gear schematic can be found in Tony Freeth's 2012 research paper: http://dlib.nyu.edu/awdl/isaw/isaw-papers/4/ The Antikythera Mechanism Episode 5 - The Input Crown Wheel Assembly

Comments

Bill Yester

Wow! As always, incredible craftsmanship! And I learned a lot as well. Thank you so very much for sharing!

Nick Oates

Great job the crown wheel looks like it's made from one piece of brass incredible and again a very informative video Chris.

Scott Clausen

Superb work, Chris! A great way to spend my Sunday evening.

Jess Neal

I was thinking you were just showing us how they did the crown gear the hard way and then you did the hard way too. Even the raw formed ring was nearly perfect. Continuously impressed Chris ;)

Ray White

With each episode, I keep thinking, this can't get any better, and with each episode, I am continually proven wrong. Just stunning.

Anonymous

A 20 minute video?! I must be in heaven

John Creasey

Beautiful work as always.

Alex Banks

Fantastic episode, can see why it took so long as there's an awful lot to it. The level of precision you achieve through ingenuity and craftsmanship is fantastic. I follow a number of CNC channels as it feeds directly into my own work, but it disheartens me when I see them not achieve polished results despite having so many advanced tools at their disposal. I think your episodes really highlight the importance of being thorough and very methodical.

Anonymous

Around 12:40 when you are trimming that bracket with the arced top side, about how long does it take to grind it down on the belt and then do the finish filing? I want to get an appreciation of how long those little parts are actually taking to create, because you make it look so easy, but also cut out a lot of the repetitive work from the videos (which we appreciate!). Thanks for everything.

Paul Busby

Another great video Chris. Love the longer length. Did you have any revelations in making the crown wheel as to why it was made that way and not out of a single piece? Could it be that they just didn't have stock that size or a lack of ability to machine away that much material. Could the hard way have been the easy way for that time period? Another thought. Could it have been done that way to make sure less material would be wasted if the teeth got messed up, maybe to just save on brass. You would "only" have to remove the outer ring and remake but the inner block of brass would be saved OR was it made from one solid piece to start with. Messed up somehow and rather than throw out the whole lot the outer teeth were turned away and the metal added back in the method you showed. Make you think. I look forward to the next.

Ryan Das

You mention the turning limitations of the ancient greeks. Are you going to cover what methods they used for turning concentric parts? My reading tells me that lathes weren't really invented until the 1800's, so I'm curious how they could make such parts.

Anonymous

Just speculation on the crown wheel. It could have been easier at the time to divide and file the teeth into the outer band while it was just a sheet then wrap the support wheel. Any tooth deformation could have been addressed with some finish filing.

Matthew Dillard

In this video you use solder twice. Would the original designer have had access to solder?

Roel Jordans

The pole lathe seems much older than the 1800's, I'm not sure though how well it'll work on metals though

clickspring

Hey Travis, grinding away the waste stock to form the arc took about 5 minutes, and then about another 30 minutes to tidy up the perimeter with files and paper. Cheers mate :)

clickspring

Hey Paul - I didn't until reading one of your suggestions. There is another feature in the mechanism that points to a very sophisticated and sound turning technology (the calendar ring inset groove) so I think it would have been possible to simply recess a solid blank using the tech of the day. As to why it was done the way it was, I like your other suggestions, all potential candidates, but specifically the idea of "messed up teeth" - Its clear that the crown wheel teeth will be prone to damage if the device experiences a bearing siezure anywhere (ie if forced by the user, the teeth will be easily deformed) So the ability to remove and replace the teeth whilst maintaining the center driving rectangle would definitely be a plus. It would preserve the filed rectangle (not a trivial bit of work to locate on the central axis), and allow repeated "re-toothing" - Great suggestion mate, thank you :)

Dean Thompson

Why did you use a rectangular boss to drive the crown wheel instead of a square as on the other end of the shaft?

Anonymous

Once again, beautiful work; clearly and concisely presented.

clickspring

Hey Matthew, yes there is much scan evidence of the use of soft solder throughout the device. It raises some really interesting questions that I'll cover in one of the next fragment videos :)

clickspring

Hey Dean, the driving rectangle dimensions are a direct copy of the original artefact - the question then becomes, why did the maker do it? At this stage, I'm not sure - correction of a filing error perhaps? (ie shooting for a square, but ended up correcting to a rectangle)

David Paterson

good job Chris. For you plans...could you adjust depth by making the crown wheel a little deep initially then tune length during assembly, finally fitting the pin? Just for those of us a little less fastidious in layout ;-)

John P

As always Chris, the worst part about your videos is waiting for the next one.

Chris Muncy

So I had patience today Chris. It's now 10 PM in the Great State of Texas and I just watched this video. That means I went ALL DAY LONG without even peeking. But man, what a great relaxing way to finish the day. Keep up the great work Chris.

Dean Neumann

beautiful work Chris. Your craftsmanship is amazing.

Anonymous

Another great Video Chris. Thank you for showing your fixtures. Gives me more ideas on how to hold parts.

Mike Michelizzi

Thanks for another great installment. I just finished watching it with my girlfriend, as she has become enamored with your videos as well!

Michael Lloyd

Apologies ahead of time for this comment, I've been watching a lot of This Old Tony videos- wouldn't it be easier to use a square drill but to make the square holes? :o) Now for the serious part- I never cease to be amazed by your videos. The production quality and the craftsmanship are amazing... and the word amazing isn't strong enough...

Anonymous

Seriously, HOW!?!?!?!?! I watch you every time and just ask how???? You are amazing.

Anonymous

Fantastic. I don't have any suggestions, I just love to watch it come together. Definitely cool to see how vertical cutting allowed the easier wonky tooth geometry!

Anonymous

So any idea so far as to why the vertical gear was formed in 2 parts? Could it just be the lack of round stock? Thanks for all you do!

Adam Ackels

Chris, completely off topic.. For us folks who want to begin machine something.. Not necessarily what to machine, but what tools you would suggest investing in? I really haven't looked into any lathes, but the Chinese stuff doesn't really look appealing (except the price).. Maybe a small video on this? Thanks for all these great videos, it helps the motivation, just like we motivate you!

clickspring

Hey Brandon, I think Paul Busby's reasoning in a comment above is pretty close to the mark - Cheers mate :)

Nathan Davey

Another great segment, Chris!

Anonymous

Great job,I've been watching since you began the clock project jusy

Derek McAllan

Geez I love watching you finish surfaces Chris... there's something hypnotic about seeing the careful sanding bear fruit.

Leo G.

Absolutely amazing, as always! I can see why this part was particularly challenging. Was the choice of a rectangular spigot for the drive gear a copy of the original? It seems like a square spigot similar to the main bearing would have been more logical.

Leo G.

PS: Any chance I could nominate a reproduction of a Curta Calculator Type II as your next project? That’ll really push your limits to a new level, I’d bet.

Ryan Das

You use a taper broach for the steady pins and broach both parts at the same time. This would give them a continuous taper. So when you hammer in the pins to the top part, wouldn't it sit above the surface of the bottom part unless you hammered it into that part as well? The diameter of the pin at the bottom of the upper part is slightly larger than a loose fit at the joint, so there would be a gap, right?

clickspring

Hey Ryan, yes generally that would be the case. You will notice in previous examples where I fit taper pins that I very slightly broach out the lower hole to accommodate the taper pin as you suggest. However it is not always necessary to broach out the lower hole. The pin fit that I am aiming for is quite firm, and brass is quite soft - as often as not, if the forward travel experienced by the pin during hammering is minimal, the lower hole will "give" enough so that it ends up being a superb fit with no adjustments to the lower plate necessary. Cheers mate :)

clickspring

Hey Leo, yes it would be an excellent project - I have the next few projects already mapped out, but its on the "maybe" list :)

Abdul Shalam

Great video as usual Chris. What is that marking tool called, the one which glides on the marking plate and any chance of showing us how to make one on TGT?

Alan Reinhart

The way your parts fit so perfectly is a very sensual experience! Just wondering about the approximate time some of your more involved filing requires.