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The one and only Deckel Schnellläufer 🏃 (Patreon)

Published:
2019-02-14 21:50:23
Edited:
2021-10-22 07:30:02
Imported:
Tags:

Content

Yes, that's 3 L in a row. Partial disassembly

Files

20181024 180202

Comments

Marc Boivin

Reverse threads?

Marco Vujevic

As the german electronics guy, you can probably ask the german machining guy. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/syyl" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/user/syyl</a>

Daddy Bearcat

Can you unscrew the shaft that appears to go through the pinion gear that engages with the "rack" machined in the side of the spindle? If you can get that out, it should either remove the pinion with it and free up the spindle, or at least let you get a better look at what's going on. If there's a tooth broken on the pinion, or a bit of wayward swarf in the works, tapping is likely to only wedge it in worse.

Ivan Tarasov

You could try to make an automatic tappy-tap-tap machine and try to tap with the eigenfrequency of the stuck joint?

Anonymous

But it isn't for any reason a left-handed threaded screw or?

Morten Hanasand

Impact wrenches are awesome, particularly for things that have adamantium threadlock, 18v one or go to a tyre place/mechanic and ask them to borrow a compressor driven one. This of course will be an exceedingly bad idea if: a) as above it is a reverse thread b) there is a grub screw or retaining clip etc. There is also the option of a manual impact screwdriver which is a worthwhile addition to any toolbox.

Morten Hanasand
>>19898243

<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-Id515-Piece-Impact-Driver/dp/B0001P0VXU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_2/262-9933174-3901552?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0001P0VXU&amp;pd_rd_r=96aa0d80-3112-11e9-862c-0b258d69bcd9&amp;pd_rd_w=XhtYj&amp;pd_rd_wg=MMscw&amp;pf_rd_p=d9539b3c-75e6-4bff-a48d-94806c2c2f83&amp;pf_rd_r=X54GNKYM6EFK3ESTZV1G&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=X54GNKYM6EFK3ESTZV1G" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-Id515-Piece-Impact-Driver/dp/B0001P0VXU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_2/262-9933174-3901552?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0001P0VXU&amp;pd_rd_r=96aa0d80-3112-11e9-862c-0b258d69bcd9&amp;pd_rd_w=XhtYj&amp;pd_rd_wg=MMscw&amp;pf_rd_p=d9539b3c-75e6-4bff-a48d-94806c2c2f83&amp;pf_rd_r=X54GNKYM6EFK3ESTZV1G&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=X54GNKYM6EFK3ESTZV1G</a>

Dermot Conner

Oh what the flaming hell Patreon? Spend 10 minutes writing up a thoughtful and fairly time-tested procedure, post it. It displays on site. Add a brief addendum as a comment which also appears. Then the next day it's as though it were never bloody there. Fix your front end you muppets! Anyway, the tl;dr: version as follows, assuming you're confident that the quill is seized in the bore, rather than the height adjust shaft (and I do wonder if the height adjust has a non-obvious locking collar or something that is the underlying cause); Selectively add light penetrating oil to the junction between quill and bore until capillary action slows or stops. Leave overnight Add heat to the outside of the bore; hot air paint-remover is a good candidate. Hot enough to be unpleasant to touch is probably what you want to aim for. Then apply torque/percussive maintenance until it frees up. There are very few machined things (that haven't been stored underwater, or under a car in the salt-belt) that won't release with that sort of attention.

marcoreps
>>19910484

Hey I've gotten a Patreon App notification about your previous comment and I've seen complaints about missing comments before. Thanks for both, heat really did the trick :)