Home
Artists
Search Recent Random
Posts
Search DMs Popular Hash Lookup Tags Random
Importer
Import FAQ
Register
Partychan Matrix ThePornDude
Home Artists Posts Import Register
Patreon importer is back online! Tell your friends ✅

Had to stop before turning this into a smearing campaign (Patreon)

Published:
2018-11-11 21:45:04
Edited:
2021-10-22 07:58:25
Imported:
Tags:

Content

Felt like this was getting a bit too negative because it's not that terrible ... but almost :|

The quest for GT2 idler pulleys with Di=8mm is still on, I am trying to print them, but shrinking makes it difficult ...

Files

20181006 140145

Comments

John McCormick

I enjoyed the free trial and eventually purchased a year subscription afterwards. No kits were received! he he

Stephan

About the GT2 pulleys... maybe it is a dumb question, but why don't you just take commonly used 5mm ones and drill them out? I'm a bit sceptical if it is possible to print some that are precise and robust enough. Otherwise... at least with SLA the precession shouldn't be a problem… By the way, for good belts, you may have a look at these: <a href="https://www.zamro.de/product/C8CFE/zahnflachriemen-powergrip-gt3-1830-2mgt3-6" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.zamro.de/product/C8CFE/zahnflachriemen-powergrip-gt3-1830-2mgt3-6</a>

Kean

I presume the kit quality isn't really the fault of Elektor, but rather OneTesla. Considering their Kickstarter was about 6 years ago, I can't believe they still ship something that poor! I know they had problems with the forming of the metal toroids, so maybe they're still trying to cover the loss. But it hardly looks better than the kits from Banggood.

marcoreps
>>17078259

Hm, some nicer belts with lower elasticity would be great indeed! I am kinda looking for Umlenkrollen with a ball bearing, the Riemenscheiben with 8mm bores are already here. But I think a print will succeed soon!

marcoreps
>>17079535

Absolutely, that's why I felt this was a bit too harsh. Mr. Electroboom has covered the same kit and nicely circumvented talking about the kit by just switching to explaining the working principles ...

Stephan
>>17078259

Ah, you mean the Umlenkrollen, I see! Yep, that’s another story, not just drilling ;) Is 8mm that important there? It seems like they are very sensitive to precision etc as well... I learned that some are even twisting the belts so they don‘t need toothed idlers...

marcoreps
>>17080341

<a href="https://www.elektormagazine.com/pages/get-to-know-elektor-magazine-marco-reps" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.elektormagazine.com/pages/get-to-know-elektor-magazine-marco-reps</a> Code: YOUTUBE-MARCO

Morten Hanasand
>>17078259

I have just bought a full sized lathe partly for similar reasons, still waiting for a vfd from China for it as I don't have three phase power. If you want to further enhance precision and longevity, consider sourcing some shoulder bolts to limit Pisa tendencies. My next 3D printer will be a sandwich of 6mm tooling plates for these reasons.

MicroVAX

had a good laugh gotta admit :D

Dermot Conner

I got suckered in by Mehdi’s review (I'm still a little sore about that) and ordered the kit a little over a year ago while they offered it discounted to his viewers ($300 or $350 I want to say, plus shipping) so I would have it in plenty of time for Halloween that year. It naturally didn’t arrive until a couple of days before Christmas (part availability was the excuse they made over and over when prodded, all the while it was listed as in stock and ready to ship on their web store). The finished product that I finally received shipped with a 3-ish amp fuse instead of the necessary 10a, missing a couple of resistors, extras of a couple more, no indication of glue to use, and no debug documentation; no list of what voltage should be seen where, and when. No trouble tree to work your way through. Just a vague suggestion that you buy a replacement set of components and build yourself another copy of the same board in the hopes it might work better. Mine operated correctly for about 1/2 a second (I have it on video even) before blowing the underrated fuse, and apparently cooking something else internal while it blew it; replacing the fuse with a correctly rated one yielded nothing but a loud pop and apparent complete death of the high-tension unit. I'm sure it's fixable for the cost of a few hours mucking about and $25 worth of fresh silicone but don't know what's died yet because I'm frankly still a bit too disgusted to take it apart and go sleuthing. (For the record I used to build development and small-run prototypes for an electronics design house to earn a living as a much younger man; I'm no stranger to following iffy build instructions and winding up with something usable. This is a genuinely crappy kit) Oh, and whatever resistor they're setting the contrast on the LCD with is evidently off because mine is borderline illegible. That or the LCD is too cheap and nasty to work in the first place. In either case a frankly insulting quality component. On a lighter note, I did reach the same conclusion vis-a-vis how to insulate and protect the secondary winding, though I ended up using a battery power drill with a lab PSU in place of the battery controlling speed. Worked a treat, though my epoxy was a bit stickier and I didn't get quite such a flawless finish. It is most certainly robust though, if only I could get the damn thing to throw some sparks through it :-)

marcoreps
>>17101393

Phew, glad I am not such a terrible hypocrite for complaining about those little problems! I have been thinking about redesigning the driver to at least make the video something more than a mockery of that kit, but I don't think I can spare the time rn :L