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Hi all,

A little early video from me answering a question from a comment on part 2. It had been on my mind all week so I wanted to address it. So I filmed a short section giving my thoughts and reasoning behind why we do the damage like we do on this dred.

Final part of the series will be up in the week.

And you've got the next part of Andy's AMAZING woodland base series tomorrow.

Have a great weekend and thanks as ever for the support

Henry

Files

What is the "right" way to chip?

A little early clip to address a question in the comments.

Comments

Anonymous

Excellent video as always and a great explanation of the whole process. Personally, I think rule of cool and one’s preference should always take precedence over realism. Especially concerning sci-fi or fantasy models. Then again, I myself try to stick with a little more realistic battle damage, as that is my preferred approach. So, I guess my 2 cents when it comes to realistic battle damage would be, that it is probably worth noting that paint on military vehicles does not usually chip straight to bare metal (though for this specific example I can most certainly imagine the paint getting stripped to bare metal, If the dread went on his merry way, joyfully hitting stuff with his fist). Chipped paint would most of the time reveal factory underpainting (factory basecoat?). I’m not really sure, since I’m not a historical modeller, but I guess this could be the origin of the popular paint colour, hull red? Whenever I sponge or paint on stuff like hull red or rhinox hide I think of that paint as a form of in-universe primer colour, rather that corroded material. Of course, you can’t always use a dark underpaint chipping colour for aesthetic purposes as, for instance it wouldn’t really show on darker paintjobs. Sorry If this came out long and dull, I’m just really passionate about weathering myself.

cultofpaint

Completely agree. I think with Army Painting you often need to make concessions, and for me it’s only having 3 colours of chipping in this case!