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I think if I’d left April completely unscathed, I would start to think I was the luckiest man on Earth.

From the success of the Cyclethon raising $1m for the Immune Deficiency Foundation, and the Abroad in Japan book being the No.1 bestselling book in the UK for three weeks running, to a birthday hike down the Nakasendo trail, it really was a month to good to be true.

Then in the last week of April, I got the worst food poisoning I’ve ever had and spent almost a week lying on the floor feeling rather humbled 😅

I believe the suspect might actually be a piece of blue cheese of all things - either that or some pork. All I know is, being physically sick on a moving train felt like being in some sort of shitty gameshow, as the train rocked from side to side while I lay on the bathroom floor. (Thank god it was a clean Japanese train at least).

But I’d hoped to do a post celebration liveshow at the end of the month, but I could barely walk across the room unfortunately. Still, thank god it didn’t happen on the cycle - for that I’m eternally grateful!

Today though, I’m here to tell you what I’ve been up to (lying on a floor aside) and to convince you to hike the legendary Nakasendo trail yourself!

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A few years ago we produced a video on the Nakasendo Trail with Ryotaro. A stunning route though the central Japan Alps of 69 post towns, that was once the main route between Tokyo and Kyoto. 

Unfortunately, due to time constraints on the shoot we didn’t get to hike it, so much as rock up in a Toyota and speed run each of the three main towns of Tsumago, Magome and Naraijuku, and in the years since, I’ve been consumed by the idea of hiking it.

I decided what better time to do it than the week of my 34th birthday and post cyclotron celebration. In hindsight, it was a bit of a daft move as my legs were still broken, and I suspect the physical exhaustion from cycling 1,000km then hiking 50km led to my body failing to handle the food poisoning.

ALAS, no regrets.

Joining our small group was a surprise guest - Ali Plumb, the BBC’s resident film expert who spends his days interviewing Tom Cruise, Harrison Ford, Emma Stone and Quentin Tarantino to name a few over on BBC Radio 1. (Here: https://youtu.be/fx_-l6xq2KI?si=jtk9Gu63ALfFL2yX )

And having convinced him to come to Japan, I invited him along and he relished the chance to trudge alongside us through the mountains.

The weather certainly wasn’t kind raining almost for the entirety of the trip, but the misty mountains and forests enshrouded in clouds gave an almost enchanting atmosphere to it all.

We started at a town called Nakatsugawa, passing through Magome and Tsumago and stayed overnight in Kiso Fukushima, before hiking the next day further north to Naraijuku, capping it off with a train ride to our end point of Matsumoto, with the iconic black castle.

From Tokyo it’s a 90 minute Shinkansen to Nagoya, followed by an hour long journey into the mountains of Gifu - all super accessible. My only advice is to try and book hotels/lodgings a good few weeks ahead, as we found something of a short supply (perhaps given it was April when things get crazy travel wise).

Ali spent two weeks in Japan and claimed the Nakasendo hike to be his favourite stretch; there’s no doubt escaping the city and taking in quiet mountain towns at a gentle pace, sleepy hamlets and gushing streams, is a perspective on Japan not enough folks get to experience.

I can’t recommend it enough and I’m happy to answer any questions you guys might have below.

While I didn’t film it this time (outside of one Instagram reel), the video with Ryotaro does a great job explaining the area and showcasing the towns (in much better bloody weather as well).

Give it a watch if you’re thinking of doing it! Be sure to set aside 3 nights if you can.

Watch Nakasendo Episode: https://youtu.be/VY5uZWFc_UQ?si=meh8f2Ar1-nT6Eqy

And Ali will be appearing on two upcoming Abroad in Japan Podcast episodes chatting about his perfect two weeks in Japan, as well as us chatting about Japanese TV and films including the recent Shogun! (Sad to see it end).

We’ve got also got a very exciting month ahead and a fair few videos coming out, including:

- A big night out in Tokyo with Che Guevara Natsuki himself, revealing nightlife etiquette and tips for travellers to Japan

- A dedicated in-depth travel episode covering Hiroshima (our first time back since 2018 for a travel video)

- The long awaited Q&A video celebrating 3millions subscribers

- Hopefully the cycle video (good luck Paul we believe in you)

- And no less than two absolutely nerve-racking MASSIVE unrelated projects that get underway in May. (More on that in a few weeks).

- If I feel 100% better this weekend, a public live show catching up with the world from the ramen shop

We may also have an epic event in the pipeline which I’ll be promoting on Patreon first-come-first-served as well. As always, best to remain frustratingly tight lipped until the time is right!

Until then guys, have a great first day of May and for the love of god, stay away from poorly refrigerated blue cheese.

Chris

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Comments

Putsies Mokies

Sashiburi Kurisu San. 💜😺

Camilla Fontana

Wow no rest for the wicked huh? 😂😂 I really hope you are fully recovered, food poisoning hits like a ton of bricks. Heartbreaking that cheese betrayed you. I'm very excited for your upcoming projects! 🎉🎉

Dimanor3

What does the bike entail? Is it just walking the length of it until you arrive at the end of the stretch over the course of a few days? If so it sounds incredible!

Sierra Day

Very excited for the news drops! And congrats on an amazing cycle! Keep up the amazing work, and keep away from the foul blue cheese 🙌

abroadinjapan

The most popular segment is about 20km and goes from Nakatsugawa to the Kiso Valley after Tsumago and Magome! Lots of forests and small villages to explore along the way

Dimanor3

I imagine you didn't do the entire walk in 1 day, did the small villages have fairly easy to reserve hotels and what not or were you stuck camping in the forests between villages every night?

Ed Morrison Jr.

Sounds like a great time I liked the video you did on it with Risottoro too bad we didn’t get to see it this time around in video form. Have you also thought of maybe hiking the Kumano Kodo trail eventually now you did the Nakasendo?

Lauren Merchant

How much were you walking in one day? Are there places to stay along the way for shorter bursts? I'd love to try the trail on my next trip, but need to stop more than the average person bc of health stuff.

Ilyas

Glad you're on the mend! Looking forward to these exciting videos!

Frans van der Pol

Imagine if it was Camembert that betrayed you instead of Blue Cheese ;)

Mic Mike

I really loved visiting Magome-Juku on my first trip to Japan. In november, the trees looked gorgeous in the area and there was a very mystical vibe in the town at night (especially as the main road was illuminated with lanterns from top to bottom). I really want to do a similar trail and continue on to Nagano (which I also loved visiting on my second trip).

Richard Naish

What a month! Glad you’re recovering from that food poisoning. We walked a tiny bit of the Nakaseno trail with our 2 kids years ago unfortunately. it was raining so heavily that it was not the experience I was hoping for and let’s put it this way it’s not one of the cherished memories of our kids.

Nynke de Haas

I would love to hike the nakasendo (or realistically, this part of it) some time! Especially in good weather and with that dreamy accommodation that you showed in your video (don't even need to rewatch it yet, it's etched in my memory!). If you're still not fully recovered, this really sounds like the food poisoning from hell! Hope you feel strong again soon! Also, not to be a pedant but afaik, alas is usually used in negative contexts! And I can't think of a positive alternative, frustratingly 😅

Amanda Hayward

I'm so glad that you are feeling better Chris 🤗. Please take time to look after yourself 🛀 I really enjoyed the cyclathon 🚴‍♀️ I was sad when it ended but happy that: a) you finished it in one piece 🥳 b) you, CDawgVA, the van gang, guests (and Sharlas protein bars 😂) managed to raise a whopping $1,058,000+ 👏🤩 c) it was 2 weeks of quality viewing ⛩️🏯🎎🌸💯 I can't wait to visit Japan for the first time 😄. Congratulations 🥳 🎉 on your book 📖 🇯🇵⛩️ I'm looking forward to your future videos. Best wishes 🫶

FrustratedPenguin

Have you considered covering Sumo? I got introduced to it here in the US and have been and avid fan for a few years now. The May tournament will start in just a few days.

Acrosicious

Thank you for all your recommendations :)

Rue

Wow, spending time showing a popular UK radio host around Japan and bringing him on the podcast, too? Careful or Pete Donaldson might start to feel threatened. I love Ali and am looking forward to seeing him on the podcast. So fun when different people whose work you enjoy come together. Ever consider doing a longer version of the Nakasendo Trail for the channel? I know you've talked about wanting to do more solo travel vlog style content. Hiking the trail might be a fun one. It looks beautiful.

abroadinjapan

Would love to go back and film it in more detail - or another segment of it! There’s a section near Kyoto I’d love to check out ⛩️ Haha, Ali is indeed Mr Donaldson 2.0, the lads are so similar

abroadinjapan

I know the feeling: The rain was definitely a bit of a pain - would definitely have preferred not rain haha.

abroadinjapan

My god Magome is so stunning! Would love to see it there at night with lanterns -I never feel like I’m there long enough!

abroadinjapan

I actually ate some Camembert at the same time 😂 Fingers crossed that wasn’t the culprit!

abroadinjapan

About 15-20km per day! There’s plenty of accommodation in each town but it gets sold out fast. We caught a local train a few stops to Kiso Fukushima and grabbed a hotel there one night

abroadinjapan

Would love to do it! Still one of the few places in Japan I need to explore on foot - hope to visit before the year is out

Mic Mike

It is very peaceful at night. All the tourists are gone and everything shuts down. I had to book in advance and there weren't a lot of availability but I went to Guesthouse Nedoko and it was quite comfortable and very well situated (near the viewpoint at the top where there is a Soba restaurant). The owner who lived next door was very welcoming too. Highly recommend.

Ed Morrison Jr.

Oh nice!! I watched these guys that did a three part series of videos that were close to 2 hours a piece on it and it looks absolutely gorgeous along that trail. Only thing that didn’t look like fun were the ground leeches and some of the steep mountain inclines and declines along the trail.

FrustratedPenguin

I went to go see it about this time last year. The best way to watch is Grand Sumo Highlights from NHK. It's only 30 min long and cuts out all the ceremonial filler between matches. Then I would look at the Sumopedia program which introduces different concepts in bite sized chunks.

VanillaCoke1956 .

As someone who hiked the portion from Nakatsugawa through Ochiai-juku all the way up to Nagiso (around 25km in a single day!) before taking a train back, I am so glad you went back to hike the route proper this time! It was easily a top 3 thing I did when I travelled around Japan for a year. Especially the part once you get out of Nakatsugawa and enter the cobblestone path to Ochiai-juku is so serene! Sad to hear about the bad weather you were facing but perhaps it added to the atmosphere along some of the path? Also, if you ever want to get away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Jike Furusato Village in Machida might be a good little trip out of Tokyo without having to spend hours travelling! Make sure to bring your mosquito repellant, though...