Loretta Plus Lamour (Plus Piping Techniques!) (Patreon)

Hi all! I wanted to make sure the Lamour expansions included with the Loretta Shorts got their chance to shine. As already mentioned, Loretta is officially part of the L Series, which is a group of Charm Patterns that were drafted to be perfectly interchangeable with each other. So the Loretta Shorts are the perfect addition to make rompers and playsuits! But we also added a cute neckline band which can be used with the Lamour bodice. This little “collar” look was so popular in the ‘50s.

Construction Order for the Romper Bust Foldover

The Romper Bust Foldover piece is designed for use only with the Lamour Bodice; follow the Lamour’s construction order for the Bodice Sash option, substituting the Loretta’s Bust Foldover for the sash. Cut two sets of the foldover piece. Interface one set (this will be the outer layer, as worn). Pin each interfaced foldover piece to each non-interfaced foldover piece and stitch around the short curved center front edge and the long un-notched edge. Grade the seam allowances and clip curves of lower edge. Turn foldover right side out and press. Baste the foldover to the bodice neckline and side seams. Complete bodice construction. 

Jazz It Up with Piping

To really make the bust foldover stand out, consider piping! (or make the foldover in a contrast fabric). Piping helps give definition, especially in bold prints like my jumbo polka dots. Here's how I did it:

1. Pin piping to the interfaced foldover pieces around the short curved center front edge and the long un-notched lower edge. Using a zipper foot, baste piping to foldover pieces, stitching closely to the piping. The  "flange" of the piping will go within the seam allowance and the piping itself will be outside of the seam allowance so it shows on the piece itself. (Note: I realize now that aligned the edge of the piping with the raw edge of the foldover, which made the foldover a little wider--I like the look of it and it was easy to apply!) 

2. Next place the uninterfaced foldover piece RS together with the interfaced piped piece, and pin together. Stitch along center and lower edges, using the basting stitches from step 1 as your guide. You want to position your stitching just outside the basting from step 1. You can see the "bump" of the piping to the left of the zipper foot below. 

3. Grade seam allowances and notch around curve. Turn fold RS out and under stitch as far as you can (it gets too tight in the corner!). Press and then baste the open edges together. 

Here's a view of my understitching:

4. Baste the folder over pieces the bodice neckline, having them meet at center front. 

Continue the rest of the bodice construction as usual!