They broke the rules and are getting away with it (Patreon)

Published:

2023-07-26 15:17:25

Imported:

2023-09

Content

8th of 8 Posts for July: March 20, 2022 (NOT 2023) is when David first hit me up about doing this video. They collected the bolts, filmed their part of the intro, sent it to me just in time to test them in limestone in nevada and then waited until the Bolting Bible was updated to release this. Once all these are caught up, I'm envisioning the turn around time to be at least a year faster :). But when collaborating with anyone, it can take much longer, but I also think they turn out much better.

NOTICE, NOTICE, NOTICE: If anyone has ordered from Extreme Gear recently and hasn't received their order yet please email me at ryan@slackline.com. More about this soon.

TODAY's VIDEO: Rui and David share that galvanized bolts are being used in limestone climbing crags near the ocean in Portugal. A place that 304 stainless have dangerously corroded within 5 years. Usually, titanium is required to have a reliable bolt, but they explain in this video that it's not just the chlorine induced "stress crack corrosion" but also sulphide stress cracking coming from BACTERIA??? Galvanized bolts apparently are not susceptible to either problem! They still have a much shorter life span compared to Titanium but it's fascinating to learn about the nerdy metallurgy details of what we trust our life to. For an in-depth dive into how limestone by the seashore eats 304 stainless check out David Reeve's awesome work at https://cragchemistry.com/

We tested the galvanized eye bolts that are used at their crag and also Steve Glotfelty's galvanized eye bolts in this episode. We also got to test a few 316SS eye bolts. Thanks to Colin Milas at https://www.colin-milas.com/ for providing the samples for these tests and for supporting the climbing community during the past 4 decades. If the single-piece 316L forged eye bolts struck your interest reach them out via email: contact@colin-milas.com

We have updated our Metal and Glue In chapters of our bolting bible and you can find that at https://www.hownot2.com/boltingbible

Files

They broke the rules and are getting away with it

Rui and David share that galvanized bolts are being used in limestone climbing crags near the ocean in Portugual. A place that 304 stainless have dangerously corroded within 5 years. Usually, titanium is required to have a reliable bolt, but they explain in this video that it's not just the chlorine induced "stress crack corrosion" but also sulphide stress cracking coming from BACTERIA??? Galvanized bolts apparently are not susceptible to either problem! They still have a much shorter life span compared to Titanium but it's fascinating to learn about the nerdy metallurgy details of what we trust our life to. For an in-depth dive into how limestone by the seashore eats 304 stainless check out David Reeve's awesome work at https://cragchemistry.com/ We tested the galvanized eye bolts that are used at their crag and also Steve Glotfelty's galvanized eye bolts in this episode. We also got to test a few 316SS eye bolts. Thanks to Colin Milas at https://www.colin-milas.com/ for providing the samples for these tests and for supporting the climbing community during the past 4 decades. If the single-piece 316L forged eye bolts struck your interest reach them out via email: contact@colin-milas.com We have updated our Metal and Glue In chapters of our bolting bible and you can find that at https://www.hownot2.com/boltingbible Sign up for our newsletter for our giveaways https://www.hownot2.com/sign-up 👉 10% off Rocky Talkie by clicking https://www.rockytalkie.com/HowNOT2 👉 Our merch is at http://www.hownot2swag.com/ 👉 1000 Patrons makes us viable https://www.patreon.com/howNOTtoHighline 👉 1 time donations really help also https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/slackcessfund 00:00 Galvanized climbing bolts??? 05:24 Our test setup 06:54 316 Eye bolts - shear 09:19 Galvanized Eye bolts - shear 14:11 Tension Tests